Mood board: Tactility took on new meaning at Paula Gerbase’s A/W 2016 ‘Fools Gold’ collection, presented to the beat of goblet drums. In a world of endless choice, Gerbase's reductionist approach is looking increasingly appealing and this season she celebrated ‘the purity of the untouched’ by honoring the invisible. As per usual, everything on her 1205 runway had a functional simplicity that masterfully concealed the complexity of her precision tailoring prowess.
Best in show: Gerbase’s collections always push the envelope on fabrication and particular highlights this season included a navy broken rib wool and double face copper polyamide (the latter resembling a fine honeycomb chain mail), from which she engineered tapered tunics. Minimalist white cotton thobes and long split skirts cut from a lustrous red ochre polyester similarly brought home the urban nomad theme. That said, it was Gerbase’s primitive shearling wrap skirt, paired with an architectural blouse made from transparent waterproof organza, which effortlessly endorsed the simple elegance of utilitarian dressing.
Finishing touches: The designer took a similarly relaxed approach to footwear this season with white soled, ecru macramé giveh loafers (which while suitable for casual beach combing, also possessed a sturdiness that you would expect from her John Lobb connections) and pointed babouche slippers that turned up at the toe in the traditional Arabic fashion.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Paul Smith’s Claridge’s Christmas tree is a playful slice of ‘countryside in the centre of London’Sir Paul Smith is the latest in a long line of fashion designers to curate the iconic Claridge’s Christmas tree. Here, he talks to Wallpaper* about the inspiration behind the tree, which features bird boxes and wooden animals
-
Victoire de Castellane nods to Dior motifs in a new fine jewellery collectionFor the latest additions to the My Dior collection, Victoire de Castellane turns the house’s signature cannage motif into golden wonders
-
After the floods, Valencia’s design community unitesValencia's design community launches ‘Auction for Action’ and 'Interioristas en Acción' (IED), initiatives to raise money for those effected by the floods in Spain
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's -
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
