Marc Jacobs A/W 2016
Scene setting: Just days after Tommy Hilfiger installed a giant ocean liner in the Park Avenue Armory, Marc Jacobs transformed the mammoth art space into a giant white box with seats in the round. White-washed floorboards set a cold, eerie feel, which would become all the more apparent once the procession began.
Mood board: Jacobs credited the Japanese musician Keiji Haino, who's known for the concept of ma – 'the haunted spaces between the notes' – as a key thought for the collection. Sure enough, set to the ringing of a single bell, which increased in frequency and pace as the show went on, models donning sky-high, patented platform boots, striped stockings and a myriad of gothic, Victorian-influenced garb stormed the runway with heavy black make-up and hair done in tightly worked finger curls.
Best in show: Incredibly theatrical pieces such as long overcoats festooned with embroidery and sequins, oversized patchwork fur coats and stoles exaggerated in shape, voluminous ball gown skirts in prints made out of the shapes of hands and intricately woven lace dresses that hung delicately off the figure, were just some of the evocative highlights of Jacobs' dark fantasy.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
-
‘There are hidden things out there, we just need to look’: Studiomama's stone animals have quirky charm
Studiomama founder's Nina Tolstrup and Jack Mama sieve the sands of Kent hunting down playful animal shaped stones for their latest collection
By Ali Morris Published
-
Tokyo firm Built By Legends gives fresh life to a performance icon, Nissan’s R34 GT-R
This Japanese restomod brings upgrades and enhancements to the Nissan R34 GT-R, ensuring the cult of the Skyline stays forever renewed
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Squire & Partners' radical restructure: 'There are a lot of different ways up the firm to partnership'
Squire & Partners announces a radical restructure; we talk to the late founder Michael Squire's son, senior partner Henry Squire, about the practice's new senior leadership group, its next steps and how architecture can move on from 'single leader culture'
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New York
Octogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The Met
The first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQ
The Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute
‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated
-
Michael Kors A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated
-
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated