Scene setting: Rather than change things up with each passing season, Rodarte has maintained a recurring theme of using fluorescent tubes in each of its runway set designs. This season, the Mulleavy sisters placed the nondescript tubes amidst piles of rubble, crimson red blossoms and steel panels, much like an electric garden, that still allowing a fragile, glowing beauty to shine through.
Mood board: Spidery knits, intricately woven lace and plenty of chiffon ruffles brought a decorative, cleverly thought-out artistry to Rodarte's signature brand of quirky femininity. Inspired by old San Francisco and vintage Fillmore posters, the collection used a bevy of graphic embellishments, including leather ruffles that wove around skirts and sculptural chandelier sleeves, formed with lace and tulle. The result harked back to an architectural sensibility while still remaining ethereally pretty.
Best in show: Instead of the homespun eccentricity that has dominated seasons past, Rodarte's autumn collection was exquisitely rendered with fine embroidery and finishes. This couldn't be more true than in the gilded flower headdresses and ear pieces (which included real orchids mixed in), antique-style bejewelled earrings, cuffs and necklaces and lambskin buckle belts which were worn as chokers, that left each ensemble smouldering with a dark, withering sense of romance.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Revolutionary Apple icon designer Susan Kare unveils a playful jewellery and objet collaboration with Asprey StudioAsprey Studio's new collection, Esc Keys, brings digital artworks by Susan Kare to life
-
What is the role of fragrance in contemporary culture, asks a new exhibition at 10 Corso ComoMilan concept store 10 Corso Como has partnered with London creative agency System Preferences to launch Olfactory Projections 01
-
Jack White's Third Man Records opens a Paris pop-upJack White's immaculately-branded record store will set up shop in the 9th arrondissement this weekend
-
Met Gala 2025 and ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’ exhibition: everything we know so farEverything Wallpaper* knows about the Met Gala 2025 so far – from the just-revealed dress code to the exhibition theme and A-list co-chairs
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New YorkOctogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The MetThe first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQThe Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s -
Michael Kors A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
