Mood board: Dries Van Noten called out the decadent lifestyle of Italian heiress Marchesa Casati and her lover, writer Gabriele d’Annunzio as his autumn inspiration, which evocatively accounted for the lashings of leopard print (Casati famously kept a big cat for a pet), gender bending tailoring (ties, Bullion insignia and coats of arms included), decadent ‘Robe de Chambre’ dressing and extravagant malachite-hued evening gowns, which are far from the Van Noten norm.
Finishing touches: Faux fur or amethyst-hued, feathered collars finished the majority of the season’s richly layered looks, while snakeskin boots with a ball and cork heel and masculine, crocodile clutch bags rounded out the accessory equation. Then just as the show’s gentlemanly tailoring was sealed with a stately tie, the collection’s evening looks were adorned with jewelled pendants made from slabs of semi-precious stones that had a commanding regality to them.
Team work: Special mention must go English illustrator Gill Button for her brush strokes this season. The Belgian designer stumbled across Button’s portraiture work on Instagram and she was quickly commissioned to hand paint each of his 1,000 show invitations with intense, shadow-heavy eyes.
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‘There's a lot to fear and a lot to love in this world’: Penny Goring unveils new work in LondonA new collection of large-scale collages takes centre stage at 'Penny Goring: Cold Hunt Corsage' at Arcadia Missa, London
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Prada A/W25’s ‘dishevelled’ beauty look confronted the big tech algorithmAt Prada A/W25, Guido Palau and Lynsey Alexander subverted prescriptive codes of ‘femininity’ through hair and make-up
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Alberto Caliri’s new vision for Missoni: ‘It’s about getting back to an essence’The Missoni mainstay has been part of the knitwear brand’s story since 1998. ‘The feeling was not one of radical change, but rather of return,’ he tells Wallpaper* of his first collection back in the creative director seat
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
