Scene setting: Adding to the Joan Miró walls and Alberto Giacometti sculpture that decorate Hall Ségur of Paris' UNESCO building, Jonathan Anderson brought in a selection of artworks that included Siobhan Hapaska's Repressed Apple; Richard Smith’s Both Halves; and Mo McDermott’s Trees, in addition to nude 1950s photographs by George Platt Lynes, which were set against the venue's angular concrete pillars. Making himself further at home, Anderson also curated a selection of house plants, while the audience's concrete stools were sprayed gold or cobalt blue, with the odd Perspex version filled with a quirky mix of household paraphernalia.
Mood board: There was an organic elegance to Anderson's stellar presentation that soaked up the modernist codes that we've come to relish from this hot ticket designer. A primal undercurrent was central to winter's utility ethos, but not just from the masks that hung around models' necks. It was also felt in his leather corsets (fit for an ancient Egyptian queen), tasselled tweeds, raw edged handkerchief hems, looped chainmail skirts, and in his fabric choices that shifted from organic bamboo jersey to a padded twill.
Finishing touches: Each heavily curated look was layered to the hilt with accoutrements that ranged from gold medallion patent points to witty hand-painted resin cat pendants. His backless, silver court shoes will also be fast movers in the shoe department. New to the sac spread were three multi-pocketed spins on the classic Amazona, along with the debut of the Joyce bag, complete with a shiny gold logo plate.
-
Dhammada Collective brings participatory design and cultural preservation to the fore in IndiaDhammada Collective, in India's Bhopal, combines participatory design with cultural preservation to foster sustainable growth
-
Year in review: top 10 design stories of 2024Wallpaper* magazine's 10 most-read design stories of 2024 whisk us from fun Ikea pieces to the man who designed the Paris Olympics, and 50 years of the Rubik's Cube
-
Sharon Smith's Polaroids capture 1980s New York nightlifeIDEA Books has launched a new monograph of Smith’s photographs, titled Camera Girl and edited by former editor-in-chief of LIFE magazine, Bill Shapiro
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek -
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
