Loewe A/W 2016
Scene setting: Adding to the Joan Miró walls and Alberto Giacometti sculpture that decorate Hall Ségur of Paris' UNESCO building, Jonathan Anderson brought in a selection of artworks that included Siobhan Hapaska's Repressed Apple; Richard Smith’s Both Halves; and Mo McDermott’s Trees, in addition to nude 1950s photographs by George Platt Lynes, which were set against the venue's angular concrete pillars. Making himself further at home, Anderson also curated a selection of house plants, while the audience's concrete stools were sprayed gold or cobalt blue, with the odd Perspex version filled with a quirky mix of household paraphernalia.
Mood board: There was an organic elegance to Anderson's stellar presentation that soaked up the modernist codes that we've come to relish from this hot ticket designer. A primal undercurrent was central to winter's utility ethos, but not just from the masks that hung around models' necks. It was also felt in his leather corsets (fit for an ancient Egyptian queen), tasselled tweeds, raw edged handkerchief hems, looped chainmail skirts, and in his fabric choices that shifted from organic bamboo jersey to a padded twill.
Finishing touches: Each heavily curated look was layered to the hilt with accoutrements that ranged from gold medallion patent points to witty hand-painted resin cat pendants. His backless, silver court shoes will also be fast movers in the shoe department. New to the sac spread were three multi-pocketed spins on the classic Amazona, along with the debut of the Joyce bag, complete with a shiny gold logo plate.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Hella Jongerius’ ‘Angry Animals’ take a humorous and poignant bite out of the climate crisis
At Salon 94 in New York, Hella Jongerius presents animal ceramics, ‘Bead Tables’ and experimental ‘Textile Studies’ – three series that challenge traditional ideas about function, craft, and narrative
By Ali Morris Published
-
A photographic study of a family hi-fi store is a vivid portrait of a small business
Fashion photographer Nik Hartley looked behind the scenes at Wilkinson’s Hi-Fi, a longstanding part of its Lancashire community.
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
The Contestant: inside the dark and exploitative beginnings of reality TV
Clair Titley’s The Contestant examines a sensationalist moment in TV history, before Big Brother meant reality became an accepted part of popular culture
By Billie Walker Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear shows
A Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?
These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated