Marques’Almeida A/W 2017
Nina Simone, Mawi dress and Malevich made up the duo’s eclectic reference points
Mood board: Fashion duo Marques’Almeida burst onto the London fashion scene in September 2012 with their denim-focused Fashion East debut. While the pair’s nineties-inspired frayed denim has infiltrated the high street, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida’s creativity has only continued to evolve, with particular focus on distinctive fabrications. Backstage the designers’ referenced Malevich’s abstract works, photographs of Nina Simone, and Mawi dress from the sixties and seventies as inspirations in their latest collection. This included ruffled skirts and halter necks hand-painted with spots in earthy tones, checkerboard fur coats, silk jackets in bright swirling prints and wide colour-blocked trousers.
Finishing touches: Evolving their accessories offer, the collection featured large hoop single earrings and spiraling gold cuffs which coiled up the arm. ‘Nina Simone really inspired the jewellery,’ Marques explained backstage. ‘We were looking at old editorials and Polaroids of her.’
Teamwork: This was the third season that Marques’Almeida cast their friends of the brand, or #MAgirls, in their show. This sense of unity was also reflected in the show’s soundtrack, which featured clips of feminist speeches, overlaid with Simone’s Feeling Good, and was a touching nod to today’s political climate. ‘We got really inspired by the girls, because they all look really different and individual. We loved the idea of Mawi's celebratory dress because that's really what the show was about – celebrating the girls.’
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Glenn Martens is headed to Maison Margiela as the house’s new creative director
The former Y/Project designer and current Diesel creative director will replace John Galliano, who exited the Maison Margiela in late 2024
By Jack Moss Published
-
Glamping on the Greek riviera: an alternative resort rooted in luxury
We check in at the 91 Athens Riviera; an alternative seaside glamping resort in the Greek capital that is all about relaxed luxury
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, Saint Laurent’s surprise menswear show captured ‘a menacing, seductive elegance’
Staged at Paris’ Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, Anthony Vaccarello mashed up Rive Gauche elegance with Robert Mapplethorpe-inspired kink for his A/W 2025 Saint Laurent menswear collection
By Jack Moss Published
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
By Jack Moss Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated