Mood board: Prada kicked off exactly where it left last season: at a liberal arts university in the 1970s swelling on the verge uprising. Rem Koolhaas’ AMO splattered the grey walls with all manner of political posters, with the audience sat atop cosy fur-lined beds with memorabilia-strewn headboards, transforming Prada’s haunting cement space into a co-ed dorm room. Against this backdrop, Prada spun deep into the seventies: models kept warm with nothing but a knitted bralette and chunky wool scarf, as well as excellent, coloured leather knee boots with sensible heels. But then we took a sharp turn with fresh knitwear that wrapped the models up in layers of woolly winter warmth, before landing somewhere in the realm of rockabilly cuts with the delicacy of 1920s chandelier beading.
Best in show: The knitwear portion of this show was stellar. Here, Prada treated mohair like duchesse satin, cutting it boldly across 1950s flounced cocktail dresses and embroidering the heck out of it with contrast colour beading and whisper weight feathers. How something so retro could look so fresh in its colour-blocked visage was as wonderfully vexing as the Eskimo fur ball hats made from floating pastel ostrich feathers that encased the models.
Finishing touches: As always, the extras dazzled; but this season they were particularly furry, woolly and warm. In addition to the ostrich feather Eskimo hats, curly lambswool handbags in bright colours were slung around the waist, while Eskimo boots in multi-coloured patch works of corkscrew fur gave new meaning to Moon Boots.
-
A revamped Edinburgh apartment combines Californian-style modernism with modern craftArcher + Braun have transformed an apartment in a historic house with finely tuned contemporary additions and sympathetic attention to detail
-
Formafantasma’s biodiversity-boosting installation in a Perrier Jouët vineyard is cross-pollination at its bestFormafantasma and Perrier Jouët unveil the first project in their ‘Cohabitare’ initiative, ‘not only a work of art but also a contribution to the ecosystem’
-
Gingerbread City: architects sculpt London out of the season's favourite treatUntil December 29 in Chelsea, see London brought to life in a seasonal-appropriate medium by leading architects and designers
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to FendiA Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxationMilan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
-
Fendi to Dior: A/W 2021’s standout menswear showsJoin us as we delight in the A/W 2021 menswear shows, featuring digital catwalk collections from brands including Fendi, Prada, Dior and Louis Vuitton
-
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons rove the digital realm for S/S 2021‘Technology is a part of humanity itself’ said the duo of their live streamed S/S 2021 show
-
Recapping Milan’s virtual mens fashion weekThemes of rebirth, re-emergence and reflection embodied the season's multimedia events
-
The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion weekTake an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
