Chloé A/W 2017
Clare Waight Keller takes her final turn as the house’s creative director – and doesn’t disappoint

Moodboard: It was an emotional morning for Chloé fans as they made their way into the Salon d'honneur in the Grand Palais. After all, this was Clare Waight Keller’s last collection for the brand, which made us wonder whether the British designer would go all out and feel freer than ever in her work. She didn't disappoint: the show was a rehash of her best pieces, more 1990s slouchy jumpsuit than 70s Glamazon, more minidress than boho numbers. The hippie aura was still there though, through an oversized tan shearling coat, a couple of long lace dresses and the models' hair, as usual flowing free; but it was more Carnaby Street than Venice Beach. Which really suited the Chloé girl. Who would have thunk it?
Best in show: It was all about the minidress. Most of the time paired with little Mary Janes and the bags that have become a best-seller for the maison, worn with a nonchalance. They came in red velvet (with a heart cutout in the front, obvious 'it girl' material); in peacock green and purple chiffon with cutouts and lace details; in black crepe with puffed white sleeves and claudine necklines; in printed black gabardine. At times it was almost reminiscent of Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent – but then, the two designers always had their love of music in common.
Team work: As usual, Waight Keller worked with sound designer Michel Gaubert, who handpicked a selection of 80s British tunes, all synthesizers and New Romantic undertones. It was a fitting counterpoint to the 60s-inspired collection. The soundtrack got particularly on-point towards the end of the show, when models strutted to the Human League's 'Don't You Want Me' for the finale, before Waight Keller made her appearance on the catwalk, waving to the words 'But now I think it's time I live my life on my own, I guess that's just what I must do'. It was Gaubert's homage to the designer, who was greeted one last time with a standing ovation – and even some tear-filled eyes.
Chloé A/W 2017.
Chloé A/W 2017.
Chloé A/W 2017.
Chloé A/W 2017.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressing
Part of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
By Orla Brennan
-
Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationship
Announcing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
By Hugo Macdonald
-
Through an innovative new training program, Poltrona Frau aims to safeguard Italian craft
The heritage furniture manufacturer is training a new generation of leather artisans
By Cristina Kiran Piotti
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss
-
Chloé seamlessly weaves together style and sustainability
In celebration of Chloé's A/W 2022 show today at Paris Fashion Week, we look to our interview with is pioneering creative director Gabriela Hearst, featured in our March 2022 issue
By Laura Hawkins
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins