Mood board: Jacquemus’ Simon Porte has grown up. His collections are no longer synonymous with childlike innocence, but adult, carefully organised affairs with a very real commercial potential. This transition was even more obvious this season, as models carefully dressed mostly in black graced the catwalk. Boring? Not when the black piece is a capri pant, or a high-waisted torero-inspired skirt, or paired with a pastel coat. Did we miss the old Jacquemus, full of humour and lightness? Almost. But, on the other hand, he's probably the only designer who would make us desperately want to wear ruched capri pants.
Scene setting: Guests clumsily stumbled into a very dark space at the – not very central – Paris Event Center, which magically lit up as the music started playing. A guitar version of Edith Piaf's Sous le ciel de Paris sounded as the lights revealed a bubble gum pink felt catwalk that matched perfectly the black, ivory and pastel pink palette of the collection.
Finishing touches: The French designer might have found his adult voice when it comes to ready to wear, but his old naïveté was still there... in the accessories! Bags were almost omnipresent this time, most of them with colourful leather cutouts, held upside down by bright gold gourmette chains, although there were also rectangular designs in pale green, pink and blue as well as micro bags fit for a single lipstick. And yet, we'd bet our ruched capri pants that they'll be best-sellers.
Jacquemus A/W 2017.
Jacquemus A/W 2017.
Jacquemus A/W 2017.
Jacquemus A/W 2017.
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‘Humour is foundational’: artist Ella Kruglyanskaya on painting as a ‘highly questionable’ pursuitElla Kruglyanskaya’s exhibition, ‘Shadows’ at Thomas Dane Gallery, is the first in a series of three this year, with openings in Basel and New York to follow
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Australian bathhouse ‘About Time’ bridges softness and brutalism‘About Time’, an Australian bathhouse designed by Goss Studio, balances brutalist architecture and the softness of natural patina in a Japanese-inspired wellness hub
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Marylebone restaurant Nina turns up the volume on Italian diningAt Nina, don’t expect a view of the Amalfi Coast. Do expect pasta, leopard print and industrial chic
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
