Mood board: It was a typically diverse and eccentric collection from John Galliano at Maison Margiela, combining the house’s deconstructed codes- a cut out trench-coat with a corset silhouette, a double-breasted coat with sheer panels, with an extensive range of references. Deconstructed varsity jackets, layered with plaid suits and Statue of Liberty cut out details nodded to America, a focal point of many collections for A/W 2017, the Statue of Liberty silhouette emphasised even more with crown-like baker boy hats in shearling and suede. Polka-dots, tapestry-prints, and jackets patchworked with tartan scarves all added to the more-is-more effect.
Best in show: A cream tailored suit, paired with an asymmetric bandeau top was a more toned down take on the collection, while an oversized tweed jacket, cinched at the waist, featured interesting cut outs in the shape of amphibious animals.
Finishing touches: At Dior, Galliano always maintained an obsession with millinery, and during his tenure at Maison Margiela he has imagined both bee-keeper hats and futuristic skull caps. For A/W 2017, he turned the 5AC bag, first seen on the A/W 2016 runway, literally on its head, adorning its base with feathers and placing it as a hat on models heads. Peacock feathers and strands of thread also acted as hair accessories, while elbow length gloves were covered DIY-style with colourful stickers. Margiela’s iconic two toed ‘Tabi’ boot was also reimainged with a sporty drawstring detail, in claret and grey snakeskin.
Maison Margiela A/W 2017.
Maison Margiela A/W 2017.
Maison Margiela A/W 2017.
Maison Margiela A/W 2017.
-
Real or imaginary? Step inside the alternate world of Jeff Wall's photographsJeff Wall's major show at MAAT in Portugal dives into four decades of the photographer's career
-
Inside Kyotographie, Japan’s world-renowned photography festivalKyotographie 2025 embraces the theme ‘Humanity’ in Kyoto – Amah-Rose Abram reports with the highlights, from major and emerging photographers
-
Isolation to innovation: Inside Albania’s (figurative and literal) riseAlbania has undergone a remarkable transformation from global pariah to European darling, with tourists pouring in to enjoy its cheap sun. The country’s glow-up also includes a new look, as a who’s who of international architects mould it into a future-facing, ‘verticalising’ nation
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
