Saint Laurent A/W 2017
Scene setting: At the pharaonic construction site that is the new YSL headquarters at the Rue de Bellechasse, guests were ushered to the ‘cour’, where a black pyramid of benches was built under a tent. Unfortunately, it was exactly at that time that the Parisian skies opened and it started to pour with rain – even inside the tent. Combined with the cold lights and the white stones covered in plastic and metal scaffolding, the setting gave the show an unusually eerie atmosphere.
Mood board: In Anthony Vaccarello's hands, the Saint Laurent woman is actually a girl who parties like it's 2002. The shorter the hem, the happier she is. The shinier the dress, the more she will dance. She is not afraid to wear ruched knee-high boots over black jeans or a nipple-flashing blue vinyl minidress. While rhinestone embellished dresses recalled the partywear of noughties LA-starlets, squared shoulders and ruffled details also provided a dash of eighties nostalgia, all with a soupçon of Parisian bourgeoisie. After all, Saint Laurent is not French for nothing.
Best in show: Vaccarello explored Yves Saint Laurent's ‘Saharienne’ collection through a series of tan leather and shearling looks (an unexpected colour for him). A fitted leather mini dress with an interior shearling detail made quite an impression, as did Vaccarello's first menswear collection for the maison, a departure from Hedi Slimane's take on masculine fashion and an exercise in understatement and precision.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Out of office: what the Wallpaper editors have been doing this week
A week of jetsetting has seen the editors in Tokyo, Milan, Vienna, Miami, New York and drinking Guinness with Jonathan Anderson in London
By Bill Prince Published
-
The Living Places experiment: how can architecture foster future wellbeing?
Research initiative Living Places Copenhagen tests ideas around internal comfort and sustainable architecture standards to push the envelope on how contemporary homes and cities can be designed with wellness at their heart
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Turin’s Museo Egizio gets an OMA makeover for its bicentenary
The Gallery of the Kings at Turin’s Museo Egizio has been inaugurated after being remodelled by OMA, in collaboration with Andrea Tabocchini Architecture
By Smilian Cibic Published
-
Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spin
From a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
By Jack Moss Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022: Loewe to Chanel
Fashion Week returns to form in the French capital. Here is everything you need to know about Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Doug Aitken creates reflective artwork for Saint Laurent in Venice
For the Saint Laurent S/S 2022 show, the brand’s first physical catwalk presentation since the Covid-19 pandemic began, American artist Doug Aitken created the living artwork Green Lens, on Venice's Isola della Certosa
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated