Moodboard: Bombastic. That's what the last show of the day was. Mind you, it takes imagination to excite the minds of tired fashion editors at 10pm after a whole day of shows. And yet Glenn Martens manages to do so effortlessly, every time. This season, his recipe included a diverse range of looks, with enough variety in each one to you make you feel like Alice falling down a street wear rabbit hole. An inspired cocktail, ranging from puffer jackets to corsets, tracksuits to denim, that worked wonders on the audience.
Best in show: Where to begin? A white sequinned hooded onesie. Embroidered jeans. An XXL faux fur coat. Translucent plastic. Thigh high boots. Oversized bombers. Taffeta trouser suits. It's not easy to get away with so much information all in one show, but somehow it all worked marvellously well. The Belgian designer's unique mix of streetwear and ultra precious influences (jogging pants in grosgrain? Check. Pussy bows in thick leather? Check) keeps getting more and more refined with each passing season.
Finishing touches: Spiralling pearl earrings graced many of the looks, adding a further baroque layer to the collection. In the same line, we were delighted to see again the ‘Napoleon-Josephine’ XXL scarves (that were prominently debuted during the menswear show a month ago) featuring intarsia portraits of the French Emperors... in a football scarf aesthetic.
Y/ Project A/W 2017
Y/ Project A/W 2017
Y/ Project A/W 2017
Y/ Project A/W 2017
-
Waiting for Ideas have recast the turntable as a minimal aluminium altar for vinyl worshipThe PP-1 turntable is an ultra-minimal, all-aluminium record player designed to enhance the vinyl experience
-
Fendi celebrates 100 years with an all-out runway show at its new Milan HQIn the wake of Kim Jones’ departure, Silvia Venturini Fendi took the reins for a special co-ed A/W 2025 collection marking the house’s centenary, unveiling it as the first act of celebrations within Fendi’s expansive new headquarters in Milan
-
‘Leigh Bowery!’ at Tate Modern: 1980s alt-glamour, club culture and rebellionThe new Leigh Bowery exhibition in London is a dazzling, sequin-drenched look back at the 1980s, through the life of one of its brightest stars
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to HermèsIn this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
