Mood board: Luke and Lucie Meier presented their second collection for Jil Sander for A/W 2018, a serene and protective men’s and women’s collection packed with enveloping garments, soft padding, and cocooning shapes. The duo were inspired by protective garments for future, but these were not cold or mechanical, they were warm, insulating and swaddling. A puffy knitted jacket layered with delicate organza, boots resembling soft leg warmers, a bobbing circular skirt in translucent nylon knit, a men’s navy cape, jackets with tubes of wool wrapped around the elbow. This was a collection for the future that nodded to the past- the garments boasted a monastic serenity, and were finished with courtly ruching, and corsetry. The duo have spoken of their desire to re-educate the customer about the belief Sander is a purely minimalist brand- and they achieved this with glittering floral jacquards taken from the nineties Sander archive and fake fur overcoats in pretty pansy prints.
Finishing touches: accessories were integral to the brand’s concept of protection. Models carried soft folded duvets and pillows, a warming muff doubled up as a bag, shrugs in comforting tea towel stripes were padded like protective blankets.
Best in show: Luke and Lucie Meier’s skill in fabrication is exquisite, their clothes are ones you want to touch. The duo’s aforementioned knitted wool tailoring which was topped with organza, resembled a hazy cloud. Elsewhere a cocoon shape tweed coat had pockets lined with ribbed knit, details you want to delve into, soft and serene protection for the future.
-
The most whimsical hotel Christmas trees around the worldWe round up the best hotel Christmas tree collaborations of the year, from an abstract take in Madrid to a heritage-rooted installation in Amsterdam
-
Stone dials are making a comeback: here are the watches doing it bestWatches with hard stone dials are enjoying a surge in popularity
-
These illuminating fashion interviews tell the story of style in 2024Selected by fashion features editor Jack Moss from the pages of Wallpaper*, these interviews tell the stories behind the designers who have shaped 2024 – from Kim Jones to Tory Burch, Willy Chavarria to Martine Rose
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022: ‘Fendace' to FerragamoFashion Week returns to form in the Italian home of style and design. Here is everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Jil Sander on the purist principles of her Uniqlo collaborationIn celebration of +J, Wallpaper's quality maniac-at-large Nick Vinson speaks to Jil Sander about her upcoming A/W 2020 collaboration with Uniqlo
-
The aesthetic intimacy of Jil Sander's S/S 2021 collectionCreative directors Lucie and Luke Meier on the ‘purity of image' behind the brand's pared-back spring film, directed by Stephen Kidd
-
The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion weekTake an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
