Mood board: Last October saw the opening of ‘She Walks in Beauty’, the Olivier Theyskens retrospective at MoMu in Antwerp, an amazing feat for a designer just past 40 who has helmed Rochas, Nina Ricci and Theory. The exhibition explored the gothic romanticism of Theyskens’ aesthetic, its name taken from a Lord Byron poem of 1813. For A/W 2018, it was punky platform boots that carried models walked down the catwalk in, dressed in grungy leather trousers paired with chunky knitwear with Theyskens’ signature hook and eye details, bleached denim lace, panel slip dresses and tuxedo jackets. The collection was a nod to the 1990s, accompanied by a thrashy guitar soundtrack, and in their stacked platforms, the models towered over the catwalk like sinister statues.
Best in show: Amongst the pretty wearable pieces in Theyskens’ signature black colour palette, there were camisoles, bias cut dresses and velvet Le Smoking jackets in menthol, ivory and burgundy. Infinitely wearable pieces, whether your persuasion is for something gothic, or more for a well-cut jacket, marked with Theyskens’ impeccable tailoring.
Finishing touches: Those towering platform boots stole the show, and shaped the A/W 2018 silhouette into something punky, grungy and darkly ethereal. The styling of the collection was imbued with a tough touch of The Matrix, or thrash metal bands.
Olivier Theyskens A/W 2018.
Olivier Theyskens A/W 2018.
Olivier Theyskens A/W 2018.
Olivier Theyskens A/W 2018.
-
ICON 4x4 goes EV, giving their classic Bronco-based restomod an electric twistThe EV Bronco is ICON 4x4’s first foray into electrifying its range of bespoke vintage off-roaders and SUVs
-
‘Dressed to Impress’ captures the vivid world of everyday fashion in the 1950s and 1960sA new photography book from The Anonymous Project showcases its subjects when they’re dressed for best, posing for events and celebrations unknown
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
