Scene setting: The Sacai fashion show at number 11, rue Béranger took place in what appeared to be an abandoned six-storey car park in the middle of Le Marais, but this 1970s-designed building used to be the headquarters of Libération, one of France’s leading left-wing newspapers. It was only vacated three years ago, due to the damaging cocktail of spiralling rents and dwindling print sales. While the building remained unoccupied some newspaper vestiges still remained, including some colourful Noughties Macs. The first to trespass into this previously unchartered territory was Dries Van Noten who showed his menswear collection there a couple of seasons ago, and since then it has become more of a staple during Paris Fashion Week. And for a good reason: the light is bountiful and guests are treated to one of the most privileged views of Paris.
Best in show: Casual or formal? The Sacai woman just doesn’t answer to that question. Instead, she combines both... at the same time. Designer Chitose Abe has always explored the idea of hybrid dressing, but this time it was ramped up to another level – blazers turned into denim jackets, coats into puffas and, of course, trousers into her signature pleated skirts. There was a prominent college theme, visible in horizontal burgundy and navy blue stripes and in handmade knits featuring intarsia coats of arms, the most exciting – and newest – pieces. Elsewhere, there were bicolour pieces (a recurring trend this season) in the shape of trenchcoats merged with dresses. It will interesting to see how Chitose Abe translates the most intricate pieces in the commercial collection.
Finishing touches: It appears zebra and leopard worn together are back in fashion... but only if decorating a pair of mismatched shoes: ankle boots, pumps, and chelsea booties in animal-printed calf hair accessorised most of the looks. But nothing caught our attention as much as the electric blue and orange rectangular bags sporting the logo of the legendary Shibuya vinyl store, Manhattan Records. The kind of delicious oddity which the fashion-savvy fans of Sacai will adore.
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Hella Jongerius’ ‘Angry Animals’ take a humorous and poignant bite out of the climate crisisAt Salon 94 in New York, Hella Jongerius presents animal ceramics, ‘Bead Tables’ and experimental ‘Textile Studies’ – three series that challenge traditional ideas about function, craft, and narrative
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A photographic study of a family hi-fi store is a vivid portrait of a small businessFashion photographer Nik Hartley looked behind the scenes at Wilkinson’s Hi-Fi, a longstanding part of its Lancashire community.
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The Contestant: inside the dark and exploitative beginnings of reality TVClair Titley’s The Contestant examines a sensationalist moment in TV history, before Big Brother meant reality became an accepted part of popular culture
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
