Scene setting: Burberry is not just a brand, it’s a British institution, so it’s fitting that for his sophomore collection for the label, Riccardo Tisci presented his show inside The Tanks of the industrialist Tate Modern. An expanse of cages lined the walls of the in-the-round space. As the show began, a host of over 100 adolescents clambered onto this construct, climbing up ladders, burrowing into tunnels, whooping, shrieking and hollering. The accompanying show music was created by MIA. She designed two soundscapes that moved through a series of genres from the 1990s to the present day.
Mood board: Burberry is a brand that has both high and low associations. Its signature check has transcended the British class system in recent decades. These touchstones are important to Tisci. During his tenure at Givenchy, his silhouettes masterfully bought together the world of streetwear and haute couture. His 106 look-strong men’s and women’s collection for Burberry, touched on sports and sophistication, the laddish and the ladylike, the elegant and the athletic.
Cue, like Tisci’s debut, a show split into sections. One abounding in football-strip shapes, deconstructed rugby shirts sported as skirts, sporty gem-embellished mini dresses, puffa jackets and bold Burberry check coats. The other more grown-up segment in a colour palette of predominantly signature beige, green and gold, featured deconstructed trenchcoats, leather pencil skirts, duffle coats and demure suiting. Clothes to entice a Burberry customer diverse in age and aesthetic persuasion.
Best in show: Last season Tisci pioneered bringing elegance back to the catwalk. The prevalence of foulard silks, sharp skirts and beige tones on A/W 2019’s catwalks so far, are a testament to his aesthetic effect. A series of women’s pieces only enhanced this further, including a trenchcoat spliced into sections, with a visible Burberry check lining and a silk skirt tessellated with the brand’s new Peter Saville-designed logo. §
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The Barbican as muse: composer Shiva Feshareki on bringing the brutalist icon to life through musicFor the last two years, British-Iranian experimental composer and turntablist Shiva Feshareki has been drawing on the Barbican’s hidden history as a gateway for her new piece. She talks to Wallpaper* about her Brutalist muse
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London's coolest design-led coffee shops for your Fashion Week fixCoffee shops are the heart of London’s neighbourhoods, discover those fusing speciality beans and stylish interiors for the perfect brew
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Martine Rose’s first gallery show celebrates the radical queer energy of Bronski BeatTaking place at Sadie Coles over London Fashion Week, ‘Everything Must Change’ centres on a 2016 short film by menswear designer Martine Rose and image-maker Sharna Osborne starring Bronski Beat frontman Jimmy Somerville
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
London Fashion Week A/W 2021: the future of post-pandemic dressingLondon Fashion Week's first digial only-offering imagined a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Burberry, Simone Rocha and Priya Ahluwalia
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Optimism and pragmatism align at London Fashion Week S/S 2021In a socially-distanced show season different to any other, LFW's designers offered images of hope, escapism and utilitarianism
