Mood board: From the works of EM Forster to Henry James, the literary canon is populated with novels that explore the results of colliding cultures. Puritanism and Europeanism. Metropolis morals and countryside ethics. Imagined narratives are often the basis of Erdem Moralioglu’s collection, and for A/W 2019, he was taken by the tale of Principessa Orietta Doria Pamphilj, the head of one of Italy’s greatest noble families, who died at the age of 78 in 2000. She had lived in an 1000 room Palazzo in Rome, and spent much of her life with her English naval officer husband, dedicated to upkeeping her family’s property, which included a castle in Apulia and an abbey near Portofino. His collection was inspired by an imagined visit the Principessa took to London in the 1960s, and featured a collusion of grand jacquard dresses and conservative twinset cardigans, short dresses sparkling with sequins and ostrich feathers or featuring inbuilt capes.
Finishing touches: Orietta’s father was anti Fascist, and during Mussolini’s reign her family’s palace was stormed by his supporters. Her father even had to go into hiding in 1943, and Orietta and her mother disguised their identities by dying their hair black. Dark feathered fascinators echoed this physical change, while net veils had both a concealing quality and Catholic severity. Knee high snakeskin boots in pop colour shades added a soupcon of 1960s.
Best in show: A black brocade suit was suitably luxurious, while an emerald silk dress with bow details and cut-out panels was demure yet daring. We’re sure Orietta would approve.
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Inside Alessandro Michele’s showstopping debut haute couture show for ValentinoThis afternoon in Paris (29 Janaury 2025), the Italian designer hit new heights with an eclectic, era-traversing couture collection for Valentino
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Inside Bell Labs, the modernist vision behind Severance's minimalist settingWe explore the history of Bell Labs - now known as Bell Works - the modernist Eero Saarinen-designed facility in New Jersey, which inspired the dystopian minimalist setting of 'Severance'
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Toronto’s DesignTO 2025 highlights – design and art to see across the cityAt DesignTO, the largest festival of its kind in Canada, determined artists and designers gather in Toronto in full embrace of chilly weather. Our on-the-ground correspondent reports on its standout moments
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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London Fashion Week S/S 2022: eight important insights to know nowFashion brands are back with a bang in The Big Smoke. Here’s everything you need to know from London Fashion Week S/S 2022
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
London Fashion Week A/W 2021: the future of post-pandemic dressingLondon Fashion Week's first digial only-offering imagined a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Burberry, Simone Rocha and Priya Ahluwalia
