Mood board: From the works of EM Forster to Henry James, the literary canon is populated with novels that explore the results of colliding cultures. Puritanism and Europeanism. Metropolis morals and countryside ethics. Imagined narratives are often the basis of Erdem Moralioglu’s collection, and for A/W 2019, he was taken by the tale of Principessa Orietta Doria Pamphilj, the head of one of Italy’s greatest noble families, who died at the age of 78 in 2000. She had lived in an 1000 room Palazzo in Rome, and spent much of her life with her English naval officer husband, dedicated to upkeeping her family’s property, which included a castle in Apulia and an abbey near Portofino. His collection was inspired by an imagined visit the Principessa took to London in the 1960s, and featured a collusion of grand jacquard dresses and conservative twinset cardigans, short dresses sparkling with sequins and ostrich feathers or featuring inbuilt capes.
Finishing touches: Orietta’s father was anti Fascist, and during Mussolini’s reign her family’s palace was stormed by his supporters. Her father even had to go into hiding in 1943, and Orietta and her mother disguised their identities by dying their hair black. Dark feathered fascinators echoed this physical change, while net veils had both a concealing quality and Catholic severity. Knee high snakeskin boots in pop colour shades added a soupcon of 1960s.
Best in show: A black brocade suit was suitably luxurious, while an emerald silk dress with bow details and cut-out panels was demure yet daring. We’re sure Orietta would approve.
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At Design Miami Paris, an artful menagerie tells a story of scent and natureVikram Goyal and Sissel Tolaas present ‘The Soul Garden’ at Design Miami Paris (until 26 October 2025), ‘a contemporary fable where the animals take new forms, reimagined for the world we live in today’
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Check in at Aman Rosa Alpina, a modern Alpine cocoonSan Cassiano’s historic hotel has been reborn as a pared-back Aman refuge in the heart of the Dolomites
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‘It’s really the workplace of the future’: inside JPMorganChase’s new Foster + Partners-designed HQThe bronze-clad skyscraper at 270 Park Avenue is filled with imaginative engineering and amenities alike. Here’s a look inside
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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London Fashion Week S/S 2022: eight important insights to know nowFashion brands are back with a bang in The Big Smoke. Here’s everything you need to know from London Fashion Week S/S 2022
