Ports 1961 A/W 2019 London Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: Sophistication has swagger again. After seasons of trainers and sportswear, a new take on smart dressing is dominating. Just look to the smart foulard silks, pencil skirts and pussybow blouses, which Riccardo Tisci debuted at Burberry last season. Outside the shows, hair clips, trench coats and kitten heels are taking centre stage. Ports 1961 has always had a smart yet playful sensibility. Its signature piece is the shirt.
For A/W 2019, the staples of bourgeois dressing, from twinsets to evening dresses fascinated creative director Nataša Cagalj. These were reinterpreted with off-kilter elements, like camel dresses appearing undone at the collarbone, asymmetrically cut blazers and vinyl mackintoshes with flyaway sleeves. Eveningwear and tailoring but twisted and turned. Classic grey, camel, black and white, offset with pops of satsuma, carmine and eggshell.
Best in show: From cashmere to camel hair, bonded wool to houndstooth, luxury lay here in Cagalj’s fabrications. Standout was a zebra stripe knitted sweater with trailing threads, oversized oblique cut blazers and a camel coat worn on the reverse, dangling with long threads of gold chainmail.
Finishing touches: Long tassels dangled from model’s ears or hung low on the décolleté as pendants. The fine strands resembled not bourgeois string of beads, gemstones or plumes of feathers, but dense lengths of hair.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Mercedes-Benz previews its next-gen people mover with an ultra-luxury EV concept
The Mercedes-Benz Vision V Concept is an art deco picture palace on wheels, designed to immerse passengers in parallel worlds as they travel
By Jonathan Bell
-
Visit this Michelin-star New York restaurant that doubles as an art gallery
Artist Mr.StarCity is exhibiting his emotionally charged yet optimistic ‘Bloomers’ portrait series at Frevo, a Greenwich Village hidden haunt
By Adrian Madlener
-
Nina Runsdorf brings classic jewellery back to life to mark 20 years
New York-based jewellery designer Nina Runsdorf celebrates her eponymous brand’s anniversary with a new jewellery collection, ‘Archive’
By Hannah Silver
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
By Jack Moss
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins