Mood board: Men haven’t walked on Roland Mouret’s runway since 2011, but for A/W 2019, several took a turn on his catwalk on the ground floor of the brutalist National Theatre. ‘It’s womenswear in big sizes! Guys came to see the collection and said, “I want these pieces!”’ Mouret said backstage. The masculine moment elucidated the theme of Mouret’s collection – an exploration of oversized silhouettes, inspired by the period he spent thrifting clothes, age 18, at French flea markets, irrespective of their gender or silhouette. He linked this concept with sustainability and mankind’s need to wear pieces independent of their specific seasonal silhouette. ‘We have to offer a symbolic solution to waste’, he explained. On the catwalk, that meant a predominant colour palette of purples, blues, reds and khakis, oversized overcoats and suiting, voluminously cut silk and lurex dresses and expertly draped blouses. These weren’t pieces with an avant-garde Balenciaga or Vetements oversized shape, but for Mouret’s customer, used to body-con proportions, there were new dimensions here. ‘You should never show safe pieces,’ he said.
Best in show: A white double-breasted suit was wonderfully elegant, and tapped into fashion’s current penchant for tailoring as evening wear. Flecked red and black tweed body skimming dresses and smart coats were luxuriously tactile.
Finishing touches: There was insouciance behind the show’s styling, which emphasised the relaxed oversized silhouettes in the collection. Double-breasted blazers and overcoats were thrown over the shoulders. A model walking down the catwalk walking a French dog named Dave, only added to the easy elegance.
Roland Mouret A/W 2019.
-
Visit this Michelin-star New York restaurant that doubles as an art galleryArtist Mr.StarCity is exhibiting his emotionally charged yet optimistic ‘Bloomers’ portrait series at Frevo, a Greenwich Village hidden haunt
-
Nina Runsdorf brings classic jewellery back to life to mark 20 yearsNew York-based jewellery designer Nina Runsdorf celebrates her eponymous brand’s anniversary with a new jewellery collection, ‘Archive’
-
Enter the world of Cave Bureau, and its architectural and geological explorationsNairobi practice Cave Bureau explores architecture’s role in the geological afterlives of colonialism, as part of a team exhibiting at the British pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
