Mood board: Men haven’t walked on Roland Mouret’s runway since 2011, but for A/W 2019, several took a turn on his catwalk on the ground floor of the brutalist National Theatre. ‘It’s womenswear in big sizes! Guys came to see the collection and said, “I want these pieces!”’ Mouret said backstage. The masculine moment elucidated the theme of Mouret’s collection – an exploration of oversized silhouettes, inspired by the period he spent thrifting clothes, age 18, at French flea markets, irrespective of their gender or silhouette. He linked this concept with sustainability and mankind’s need to wear pieces independent of their specific seasonal silhouette. ‘We have to offer a symbolic solution to waste’, he explained. On the catwalk, that meant a predominant colour palette of purples, blues, reds and khakis, oversized overcoats and suiting, voluminously cut silk and lurex dresses and expertly draped blouses. These weren’t pieces with an avant-garde Balenciaga or Vetements oversized shape, but for Mouret’s customer, used to body-con proportions, there were new dimensions here. ‘You should never show safe pieces,’ he said.
Best in show: A white double-breasted suit was wonderfully elegant, and tapped into fashion’s current penchant for tailoring as evening wear. Flecked red and black tweed body skimming dresses and smart coats were luxuriously tactile.
Finishing touches: There was insouciance behind the show’s styling, which emphasised the relaxed oversized silhouettes in the collection. Double-breasted blazers and overcoats were thrown over the shoulders. A model walking down the catwalk walking a French dog named Dave, only added to the easy elegance.
Roland Mouret A/W 2019.
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Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
