Mood Board: Gabriela Hearst was inspired by the life and tenacity of ballet dancer Maya Plisetskaya after reading the dancer's autobiography. A tale of survival and talent, where beauty and endurance were intertwined, snippets of Plisetskaya's life in the Soviet Union and at the Bolshoi Ballet, became the basis for Hearst's collection which included utilitarian full-length coats, tiered cashmere gauze skirts, form-skimming knitted gowns and recycled cashmere robes.
Finishing Touches: While the collection's palette was fairly restrained and confined to military tones of olive, black and camel, Hearst's inimitable line of handbags dealt just the right amount of fantasy with their unique forms and exquisite detailing. From signatures like the accordion-esque Diana bag, which displayed a new colour-blocked combination, to the new Mercedes clutch bag that pairs a belt-buckle closure with a concertina and the Joplin – a metal phone cage with a leather strap, these sensational specimens easily took one's breath away.
Best in show: Sustainability is a hot topic, but it's been essential to Hearst's take on luxury since she founded her label. Here she showed that being eco-conscious at the upper echelons of luxury didn't have to come at a sacrifice. From the use of recycled cashmere in certain knitted pieces to USA-farmed alligator skins for leather pencil skirts, and even upcycling excess fabrics like fine wool, cashmere and silk to make the cushions that showgoers sat on, Hearst quietly showed that you don't have to up-end the applecart to do the right thing.
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2019.
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2019.
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2019.
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2019.
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The Barbican as muse: composer Shiva Feshareki on bringing the brutalist icon to life through musicFor the last two years, British-Iranian experimental composer and turntablist Shiva Feshareki has been drawing on the Barbican’s hidden history as a gateway for her new piece. She talks to Wallpaper* about her Brutalist muse
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London's coolest design-led coffee shops for your Fashion Week fixCoffee shops are the heart of London’s neighbourhoods, discover those fusing speciality beans and stylish interiors for the perfect brew
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Martine Rose’s first gallery show celebrates the radical queer energy of Bronski BeatTaking place at Sadie Coles over London Fashion Week, ‘Everything Must Change’ centres on a 2016 short film by menswear designer Martine Rose and image-maker Sharna Osborne starring Bronski Beat frontman Jimmy Somerville
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Met Gala 2025 and ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’ exhibition: everything we know so farEverything Wallpaper* knows about the Met Gala 2025 so far – from the just-revealed dress code to the exhibition theme and A-list co-chairs
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Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New YorkOctogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
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‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The MetThe first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
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Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
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‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQThe Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
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New York Fashion Week A/W 2021: drive thrus and digital distortionNew York Fashion Week's digital-first offering presented solutions to life post-pandemic and political crisis, from brands including Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler, Khaite and Collina Strada
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Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
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Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
