Gabriela Hearst A/W 2019 New York Fashion Week Women's
Mood Board: Gabriela Hearst was inspired by the life and tenacity of ballet dancer Maya Plisetskaya after reading the dancer's autobiography. A tale of survival and talent, where beauty and endurance were intertwined, snippets of Plisetskaya's life in the Soviet Union and at the Bolshoi Ballet, became the basis for Hearst's collection which included utilitarian full-length coats, tiered cashmere gauze skirts, form-skimming knitted gowns and recycled cashmere robes.
Finishing Touches: While the collection's palette was fairly restrained and confined to military tones of olive, black and camel, Hearst's inimitable line of handbags dealt just the right amount of fantasy with their unique forms and exquisite detailing. From signatures like the accordion-esque Diana bag, which displayed a new colour-blocked combination, to the new Mercedes clutch bag that pairs a belt-buckle closure with a concertina and the Joplin – a metal phone cage with a leather strap, these sensational specimens easily took one's breath away.
Best in show: Sustainability is a hot topic, but it's been essential to Hearst's take on luxury since she founded her label. Here she showed that being eco-conscious at the upper echelons of luxury didn't have to come at a sacrifice. From the use of recycled cashmere in certain knitted pieces to USA-farmed alligator skins for leather pencil skirts, and even upcycling excess fabrics like fine wool, cashmere and silk to make the cushions that showgoers sat on, Hearst quietly showed that you don't have to up-end the applecart to do the right thing.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
-
The Wallpaper* guide to party dressing with abandon
Decadent get-ups to let your sartorial hair down this festive season, ready for a month-long marathon of hedonism and indulgence
By Jack Moss Published
-
C-Next Designers Europe hosted by Cosentino is forging the future of the interior design industry
220 interior design professionals from 30 countries attended the invite-only event in Almeria for two days of factory tours, workshops and panel discussions
By Hugo Macdonald Published
-
Jaguar reveals its new graphic identity ahead of a long-awaited total brand reboot
Jaguar’s new ethos is Exuberant Modernism, encapsulated by a new visual language that draws on fine art, fashion and architecture
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New York
Octogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The Met
The first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQ
The Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated
-
New York Fashion Week A/W 2021: drive thrus and digital distortion
New York Fashion Week's digital-first offering presented solutions to life post-pandemic and political crisis, from brands including Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler, Khaite and Collina Strada
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute
‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated
-
Michael Kors A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated