Scene setting: As the Celine show began inside a black box show set at Les Invalides, a curtain at the end of the runway dramatically dropped away. Revealed was a floating mirror-lined room suspended in the air by a huge robotic arm. Inside, was a model, exuding insouciant 1970s glamour and sporting brown check culottes, a white blouse, black blazer, glossy knee-high boots, a foulard neck scarf and aviators. The giant robotic arm placed the box down onto the catwalk. The model exited, strutting onto the runway.
Mood board: For autumn, hemlines were lowered, the micro mini dress shape of S/S 2019 swapped for more a demure dimension: knee-length culottes or pleated skirts. Legs covered by shiny leather boots. Slimane can lay claim to ultra sexy thigh-skimming shapes. A master of execution, he switched his expected silhouette on its head for autumn. The look, all capes, fur coats, blue denim and silk dresses, with smatterings of sequin and leopard print, was exuberantly 1970s, and nodded to an earlier era of Celine. When Slimane presented his first show for the house last season, critics questioned how his aesthetic would relate to that of the Phoebe Philo era. For A/W 2019, he bypassed the recent creative legacy and dived into the bourgeois heritage of the brand, beloved by Parisian doctor’s wives. In black and white Celine ads from the 1970s, knee high boots, waistcoats, horse-bit belts and gold-buttoned details are all on display. There’s an incredible amount for his modern customers to love here too.
Best in show: Come autumn, aviators will be most sought after sunglasses choice, caps will be swapped for wide brimmed hats and the only belt you’ll want to wear will have a horse-bit detail.
Celine A/W 2019
Celine A/W 2019.
Celine A/W 2019
Celine A/W 2019.
-
Hella Jongerius’ ‘Angry Animals’ take a humorous and poignant bite out of the climate crisisAt Salon 94 in New York, Hella Jongerius presents animal ceramics, ‘Bead Tables’ and experimental ‘Textile Studies’ – three series that challenge traditional ideas about function, craft, and narrative
-
A photographic study of a family hi-fi store is a vivid portrait of a small businessFashion photographer Nik Hartley looked behind the scenes at Wilkinson’s Hi-Fi, a longstanding part of its Lancashire community.
-
The Contestant: inside the dark and exploitative beginnings of reality TVClair Titley’s The Contestant examines a sensationalist moment in TV history, before Big Brother meant reality became an accepted part of popular culture
-
Celine Saint Honoré is dedicated to Hedi Slimane’s feats of savoir-faire and craftThe Celine store on Rue Saint-Honoré is designed to capture the spirit of Paris, showcasing the house’s most precious offering. Here, Wallpaper* captures Celine’s couture, Haute Maroquinerie and Haute Parfumerie collections in the luxurious space
-
Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Celine’s latest collection captures the essence of Parisian styleThe latest filmic runway show from creative director Hedi Slimane sees a collection of contrasts backdropped by Paris’ historic Hôtel de la Marine and Hôtel des Invalides
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Celine cruises into Nice beachfront for S/S 2022For the Celine S/S 2022 show, the Parisian maison took a picturesque pitstop at the Nice beachfront on the French Riviera, with a womenswear spectacle that celebrated the seaport city's architectural landmarks
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
