Rokh A/W 2019 Paris Fashion Week Women’s

Mood board: It’s been a big season for Phoebe Philo's protégées. In Milan, ex-Céline director of ready-to-wear Daniel Lee presented his debut A/W 2019 runway show at the head of Bottega Veneta. South Korea-born, London-based Rok Hwang was part of Phoebe Philo’s original design team when she debuted her first collection for Céline in 2010. Hwang started his own label in 2016, and his smart, deconstructed and fluid aesthetic earned him the 2018 LVMH Special Prize. Hwang is a master of splicing classic silhouettes, like trenchcoats, kilts and suits and reassembling these fundamentals into something new. For his first A/W 2019 catwalk show, these silhouettes were a central focus. The designer was inspired by an adolescence growing up in a caravan in Austin, Texas, and looked to 1980s and 1990s Spielberg and Gus Van Sant films as reference. Details like colourful crochet capes, floral and paisley prints and tartans had a domesticated, retro home interiors touch, and models sported protective goggles and carried torches and skateboards.
Scene setting: For the first show of Paris Fashion Week, Hwang led guests into a dark industrial space lined with white tiles. The horror film focus was emphasised by flashing red lights which illuminated the space and smoke which began to fill the catwalk as the show started.
Best in show: Plenty of Phoebe Philo fans will look to Hwang for style cues, and a voluminous navy trenchcoat with spliced Prince of Wales check details will serve them well. Knitwear was also a hit here. A deconstructed snowflake patterned chunky sweater was worn inside out, its arms tied around the neck.
Rokh A/W 2019
Rokh A/W 2019
Rokh A/W 2019
Rokh A/W 2019
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressing
Part of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
By Orla Brennan
-
Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationship
Announcing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
By Hugo Macdonald
-
Through an innovative new training program, Poltrona Frau aims to safeguard Italian craft
The heritage furniture manufacturer is training a new generation of leather artisans
By Cristina Kiran Piotti
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins
-
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins