Scene setting: For A/W 2019, Saint Laurent erected a huge silver box wrapped in mirror panelling, directly opposite the Eiffel Tower in Paris’ historic Place du Trocadero. As guests climbed the staircase into the space, the Eiffel Tower was reflected in a graphic, distorted image across the façade’s reflective panes. On arrival, guests sat on tiered seating running the length of one wall. As the show began, a mirror, behind the catwalk, and facing the audience, vanished to reveal lengths of vertically lined lightbulbs, which frenetically pulsated and twinkled throughout.
Mood board: In true Saint Laurent style, the aesthetic was glamorous rock ’n’ roll, the hemlines short and the spiky heels vertiginous. A series of opening looks introduced a new powerful silhouette for the house, with overcoats featuring huge square shoulders that nodded to the aesthetic of Claude Montana (whose legacy has just been reenergised by Gareth Pugh and vintage clothing specialist Byronesque). Yves Saint Laurent’s classic Le Smoking was seen in a white tuxedo suit paired with a black cummerbund, sequined asymmetric mini dresses had voluminous bow details, pencil skirts were trimmed with ostrich feather and sheer gowns with flamenco frills. Daring, decadent and va va voom.
Finishing touches: For the show’s finale, models disappeared behind the pane of glass, which framed the long catwalk. Male and female models were illuminated by ultraviolet light, and their final looks – like stilettos, feathered mini dresses, striped blazers and fur coats were illuminated in neon hues accordingly.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
-
Tranquil and secluded, Lemaire’s new Tokyo flagship exudes a sense of homeIn Tokyo’s Ebisu neighbourhood, Lemaire’s tranquil new store sees the French brand take over a former 1960s home. Co-artistic directors Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran tell Wallpaper* more
-
‘I wanted to create a sanctuary’ – discover a nature-conscious take on Balinese architectureUmah Tsuki by Colvin Haven is an idyllic Balinese family home rooted in the island's crafts culture
-
‘Concrete Dreams’: rethinking Newcastle’s brutalist pastA new project and exhibition at the Farrell Centre in Newcastle revisits the radical urban ideas that changed Tyneside in the 1960s and 1970s
-
Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022: Loewe to ChanelFashion Week returns to form in the French capital. Here is everything you need to know about Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Doug Aitken creates reflective artwork for Saint Laurent in VeniceFor the Saint Laurent S/S 2022 show, the brand’s first physical catwalk presentation since the Covid-19 pandemic began, American artist Doug Aitken created the living artwork Green Lens, on Venice's Isola della Certosa
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
