Roland Mouret A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: ‘Your Lies Are Not my Dreams’ was a slogan emblazoned on neckerchiefs at Mouret’s A/W 2020 show, in reference to the reality of Thatcherite Britain in the eighties. It’s also an apt summation of how many in the country are feeling post Brexit. For autumn, Mouret was inspired by the defiant fashion of the decade, and his collection featured pussy bow detail dresses in sparkling lurex, double-breasted suiting in sugary lilac, checked pencil skirts paired with draped blouses and gauzy chiffon organza gowns. The designer was inspired by the DIY aesthetic of stylist and accessories maverick Judy Blame (who was also a focus of Dior’s A/W 2020 men’s offering), apparent in surrealist brooches resembling noses and ears, formed from broken artworks by James Webster and earrings made from encrusted reclaimed wood.

Team work: Mouret teamed up with a host of collaborators for A/W 2020. Accessories came courtesy of sustainability-focused bag label Bottle top, which uses upcycled ring pulls in its chainmail shoulder bags and clutches. Eco-aware shoe label Dear Frances provided footwear, in the form of knee high kitten heel boots.

Finishing touches: Mouret spent the design season considering how to make his business more sustainable. Now 54 per-cent of his brand’s fabrics will be produced in an eco-friendly fashion and the designer aims to operate a carbon neutral business by the end of 2020.