Max Mara A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: The sea has proved inspiration for designers for A/W 2020. Take Simone Rocha’s collection, inspired by the 1904 play, Riders to the Sea by John Millington Synge, which had a shipwreck sensibility, featuring rope like Aran knits, trailing pearls and fishing net inspired bags. Max Mara creative director Ian Griffiths imagined his intelligent, executive women — who favour sharp pinstripe tailoring and the brand’s classic camel coat — dreaming of an Arctic open sea adventure, and her accompanying dreamt up outfits had a whimsical, nautical nod. This meant an offering in deep ocean blue, browns and greys that featured frothy ruffles, nautical stripes and technical waterproof nylons, from frilled shirting to puff sleeve divers coats (padded with luxurious cashmere fleece), tactile teddy bear fur jackets to lean velvet dresses with beaded chain details.

Best in show: Leg of mutton sleeve shirting nodded to one of autumn’s most enduring constructions, and had a bold eighties attitude. A sweeping navy and camel stripe coat in teddy bear fur would take any Max Mara woman straight from the office to portside-embarkation and a pinstripe jersey suit with tasseled toggles would ensure she sets sail in crease free tailoring.

Finishing touches: Nautical rope belts were used to cinch the waists of poufy sleeve overcoats and tied around high waisted tailored trousers, while an array of beanie hats had a sailor-chic all-aboard sensibility.