Mood board: The sea has proved inspiration for designers for A/W 2020. Take Simone Rocha’s collection, inspired by the 1904 play, Riders to the Sea by John Millington Synge, which had a shipwreck sensibility, featuring rope like Aran knits, trailing pearls and fishing net inspired bags. Max Mara creative director Ian Griffiths imagined his intelligent, executive women — who favour sharp pinstripe tailoring and the brand’s classic camel coat — dreaming of an Arctic open sea adventure, and her accompanying dreamt up outfits had a whimsical, nautical nod. This meant an offering in deep ocean blue, browns and greys that featured frothy ruffles, nautical stripes and technical waterproof nylons, from frilled shirting to puff sleeve divers coats (padded with luxurious cashmere fleece), tactile teddy bear fur jackets to lean velvet dresses with beaded chain details.
Best in show: Leg of mutton sleeve shirting nodded to one of autumn’s most enduring constructions, and had a bold eighties attitude. A sweeping navy and camel stripe coat in teddy bear fur would take any Max Mara woman straight from the office to portside-embarkation and a pinstripe jersey suit with tasseled toggles would ensure she sets sail in crease free tailoring.
Finishing touches: Nautical rope belts were used to cinch the waists of poufy sleeve overcoats and tied around high waisted tailored trousers, while an array of beanie hats had a sailor-chic all-aboard sensibility.
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Tranquil and secluded, Lemaire’s new Tokyo flagship exudes a sense of homeIn Tokyo’s Ebisu neighbourhood, Lemaire’s tranquil new store sees the French brand take over a former 1960s home. Co-artistic directors Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran tell Wallpaper* more
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‘I wanted to create a sanctuary’ – discover a nature-conscious take on Balinese architectureUmah Tsuki by Colvin Haven is an idyllic Balinese family home rooted in the island's crafts culture
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‘Concrete Dreams’: rethinking Newcastle’s brutalist pastA new project and exhibition at the Farrell Centre in Newcastle revisits the radical urban ideas that changed Tyneside in the 1960s and 1970s
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The story behind Max Mara’s sensual Lisbon resort showDrawing inspiration from the author, intellectual and activist Natália Correia, Ian Griffiths tells Wallpaper* the story behind his sensually minded Max Mara Resort 2023 collection, shown last night in the gardens of Lisbon’s Calouste Gulbenkian Collection
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Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxationMilan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
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The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion weekTake an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
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Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
