Proenza Schouler A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
Mood board: Staged in the ground floor lobby of Frank Gehry's ICA building, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez created a collection poised to tackle an unpredictable new decade for A/W 2020. Filled with enveloping, blanket-like shapes yet bolstered by pieces that twisted and wrapped round the body, the collection exuded an undulating tension of softness and angularity, control and release, for a utterly beguiling effect.
Sound bite: Commenting on what prompted the direction for the collection, Hernandez said backstage, ‘We're not political designers in any way, but you can't help but be influenced by the world around you. We came back into the studio right after the holidays and what you see is this narrative of unraveling, this idea of things falling apart, but also the feeling of wanting to be protected. It's those two opposing forces.'
Best in show: Dresses have always been a Proenza Schouler forte and building upon seasons past, this collection's specimens continued to exude sophistication. Despite hemlines being longer, the garments still retained their sex appeal, thanks to graphic cut-outs that elegantly revealed the midriff and waist, and drapery that followed the lines of the body, either effortlessly slipping off the shoulder or winding around a chunky metal necklace in an all-encompassing gesture. The look was power dressing at its best.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
-
Pharrell Williams’ latest Louis Vuitton show celebrates a ‘friendship for life’ with streetwear legend Nigo
Louis Vuitton men’s creative director Pharrell Williams looked towards his long friendship with BAPE founder Nigo to create a collaborative A/W 2025 menswear collection shown in Paris this evening (21 January 2025)
By Jack Moss Published
-
Think small, think electric, as Hyundai attempts to revolutionise the classic Indian three-wheeler
Hyundai’s Micro Mobility strategy, in collaboration with Indian manufacturer TVS, has revealed two conceptual takes on small electric urban transport in a bid to cut the country’s crushing pollution issue
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
‘Just beneath the surface there’s another world’: How David Lynch used hair and make-up to create his singular universe
From Blue Velvet and Mulholland Drive to Twin Peaks, David Lynch used hair and make-up in his films as a narrative device, writes Laura Havlin
By Laura Havlin Published
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New York
Octogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The Met
The first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQ
The Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated
-
New York Fashion Week A/W 2021: drive thrus and digital distortion
New York Fashion Week's digital-first offering presented solutions to life post-pandemic and political crisis, from brands including Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler, Khaite and Collina Strada
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute
‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
A decade of fashion show history in pictures
British photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
By Jason Lloyd-Evans - Photography Last updated
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
By Tilly Macalister-Smith Last updated