Mood board: The Japanese designer let his spliced, bondage-centric, punk garments speak for themselves, bathing his runway in blood curdling red light with his models taking to the catwalk without any music. Then, the punk icon connotations became clearer (and the black and blonde Debbie Harry hair styling and smeared make up) as Blondie’s Heart of Glass boomed across the venue. Watanabe reinterprets his delightfully deconstructed style each season — sticking to his signatures while presenting his fans with something new and sartorially exhilarating. There was a rebellious force behind his autumn offering, which featured sharp tailoring, corset dresses and mini skirts in lusty red leather and leopard and zebra skin, grungey toned tweed, reinterpreted and twisted, with exaggerated architectural volumes, bondagey buckles, harnesses and zips. Watanabe’s official theme was ‘sexy’, and this was a seductive them rooted in power, lust and rebellion.
Best in show: As usual, Watanabe’s tailoring was spot on. A blazer was formed from deconstructed panels of leather and tweed, and cinched at the waist with buckles. A series of leather skirts appeared to be architecturally in-built with architectural accessories, part skirt, part luggage.
Finishing touches: There was something bourgeois about the quilted clutch bags that Watanabe proposed, their padded contours subverted when they were tessellated across the body, worn hands free from harnesses, in a militaristic manner.
Junya Watanabe A/W 2020
Junya Watanabe A/W 2020
Junya Watanabe A/W 2020
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The new Frederic Church Center at Olana complements its leafy Upstate New York siteTour the Frederic Church Center for Architecture and Landscape, now open at Olana, a historic site in Upstate New York, courtesy of architecture studio ARO
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Out of office: what the Wallpaper editors have been doing this weekA week of jetsetting has seen the editors in Tokyo, Milan, Vienna, Miami, New York and drinking Guinness with Jonathan Anderson in London
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The Living Places experiment: how can architecture foster future wellbeing?Research initiative Living Places Copenhagen tests ideas around internal comfort and sustainable architecture standards to push the envelope on how contemporary homes and cities can be designed with wellness at their heart
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
