Pringle of Scotland S/S 2015
Massimo Nicosia gets the yes vote with his boundary-pushing knitwear

Good seats are vital at a Pringle of Scotland show in order to marvel at the brand's micro detailing. Which is why the brand's choice of an intimate, salon-style presentation at Claridge's fit like a glove, or in Pringle's case, a silk vest. On the runway Massimo Nicosia continued to build upon the label's long legacy of knitwear innovation. Last season, he employed architect and material scientist Richard Beckett to bring its fabrications up to speed. This season, he looked back to move forward, citing Pablo Picasso's 'The Bathers' as his inspiration, prompting a largely aqua and white colour palette and the show's overall, diaphanous translucency. By now we're all converts of Pringle's impressively wearable 3D printing techniques and experimentation with open weave knits, so this season Nicosia pushed on with new silhouettes - largely cut (or knitted) with a sporty slinkiness. Racer-back rib knit dresses led the charge as origami paillettes and beaded herringbone patterns finished the season's wrap and box-pleated skirts. Another new element that had us all craning our necks was the house's 'smock embroidery' on silk chiffon, which created textural knitwear that looked almost celluloid spongy, while traditional argyle prints were reworked as diamond cut sequins, creating luminous, three-dimensional prisms. Bugle beads similarly added a tactile crunch to honeycomb patterns, as buttery leather balanced out this cool, high-tech mix.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrast
The Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
By Jack Moss Published
-
We explore Franklin Israel’s lesser-known, progressive, deconstructivist architecture
Franklin Israel, a progressive Californian architect whose life was cut short in 1996 at the age of 50, is celebrated in a new book that examines his work and legacy
By Michael Webb Published
-
Ed Atkins confronts death at Tate Britain
In his new London exhibition, the artist prods at the limits of existence through digital and physical works, including a film starring Toby Jones
By Emily Steer Published