There have been countless designers at the helm of Jil Sander over the last decade. But none of them - not even Jil Sander herself on her third return to the brand - have managed to nail their debut runway collection as decisively as Rodolfo Paglialunga. The designer previously cut his teeth at Prada, later taking over as creative director at Vionnet and has most recently been working as a freelance consultant. Bouncing from brand to brand must have been good exercise for this well-trained designer as his freshman collection for Jil Sander demonstrated a shrewd understanding of the brand's DNA. Jil Sander is about no-nonsense day wear and Paglialunga dove in without restraint, sending out new iterations on the classic suit. Instead of pants, though, he relied heavily on culottes - a fashion favourite at the moment. But his culottes looked newer and fresher than anyone else's with their dropped crotches and flat front pockets cut from dense cotton twill. The man's shirt, deeply starched and properly buttoned up, was worn under thin clingy sweaters or compact sweatshirts with its elbows rolled up in efficient folds. Nearly every look maintained Sander's inimitable, sober Germanic coolness, not to mention her trademark wearability. There wasn’t much in the dressy department, but we didn’t mind. The palette kept things fiery, sending jolts of hot orange and burgundy through a beautiful base of navy and cornflower blue. This is a collection that has not only officially rebooted this beloved brand, but that will surely see its bottom line rise.
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‘Beyond Bloomsbury’: the life of Dora CarringtonA new exhibition, ‘Beyond Bloomsbury’, at Pallant House Gallery, UK, explores the life and loves of artist Dora Carrington
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022: ‘Fendace' to FerragamoFashion Week returns to form in the Italian home of style and design. Here is everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022
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Jil Sander on the purist principles of her Uniqlo collaborationIn celebration of +J, Wallpaper's quality maniac-at-large Nick Vinson speaks to Jil Sander about her upcoming A/W 2020 collaboration with Uniqlo
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The aesthetic intimacy of Jil Sander's S/S 2021 collectionCreative directors Lucie and Luke Meier on the ‘purity of image' behind the brand's pared-back spring film, directed by Stephen Kidd
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The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion weekTake an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
