Jason Wu took the bumpy texture of corrugated glass as a jumping off point for his spring fabric selection at Hugo Boss, with subtle yet intriguing results. The vertical-lined surface concept yielded a sweeping array of micro-plisse forms on the runway - from tiny knife pleats that were cut into lace, or even onto tulle overlays that dropped to mid calf above knee-length dresses. The pleats gave a gravitas and weighty structure without saddling the garments with bulky weight, and the effect was newly feminine for Boss, which has spent decades in the sober category of business-minded tailoring. And though he played effectively with micro beading and tweed surfaces that looked like shards of broken glass, Wu kept all of his lines super clean and clear, drawing everything from mini A-line skirts, cotton poplin shirts and pencil dresses in sharp straight lines. The tension felt right, if safe, but definitely saleable - which is the name of the game in today's big brand world.
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The 24 best photographs of 2024, shot for the pages of Wallpaper*Photography editor, Sophie Gladstone, completes her year in review, with some personal highlights from Wallpaper* photographers in 2024
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Time, beauty, history – all are written into trees in Karimoku Research Center's debut Tokyo exhibitionThe layered world of forests – and their evolving relationship with humans – is excavated and reimagined in 'The Age of Wood', a Tokyo exhibition at Karimoku Research Center
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Tour Xi'an's remarkable new 'human-centred' shopping district with designer Thomas HeatherwickXi'an district by Heatherwick Studio, a 115,000 sq m retail development in the Chinese city, opens this winter. Thomas Heatherwick talks us through its making and ambition
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Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New YorkOctogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
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‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The MetThe first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
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Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
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‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQThe Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
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Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
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Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s -
Michael Kors A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s -
Gabriela Hearst A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
