Junya Watanabe S/S 2015

The Japanese designers keep the creative flame of Paris burning bright. Junya Watanabe, one of this special group's top stars, stoked the fire even more this season with a wildly imaginative collection based on collaging. Watanabe started with circles, cutting up suede, patent leather and tulle into round spheres and then stitching them all up again to create fascinatingly artistic tunics, dresses, and capes that billowed with back volume. The surfaces later swelled into 3D formations created by rhomboid, square and diamond shapes, and then abruptly deflated into flat prints on leather. These were worn with oversized shorts, or asymmetrical skirts, and paired with platform lace-up oxford shoes with short white socks. With their hair bound into swim caps and their heads squashed into plastic helmets, there was something almost retro space age about this collection. But one can never put a Watanabe collection into such a tight, descriptive box. The pops of acid bright colours created a circus-like flavour, while the models luscious red lips had been taped together as if the designer were declaring that there was no need for this woman to open her mouth; her clothes, after all, could and would do all the talking.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
JJ Martin
-
ICON 4x4 goes EV, giving their classic Bronco-based restomod an electric twist
The EV Bronco is ICON 4x4’s first foray into electrifying its range of bespoke vintage off-roaders and SUVs
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
‘Dressed to Impress’ captures the vivid world of everyday fashion in the 1950s and 1960s
A new photography book from The Anonymous Project showcases its subjects when they’re dressed for best, posing for events and celebrations unknown
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrast
The Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
By Jack Moss Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated