Junya Watanabe S/S 2015

The Japanese designers keep the creative flame of Paris burning bright. Junya Watanabe, one of this special group's top stars, stoked the fire even more this season with a wildly imaginative collection based on collaging. Watanabe started with circles, cutting up suede, patent leather and tulle into round spheres and then stitching them all up again to create fascinatingly artistic tunics, dresses, and capes that billowed with back volume. The surfaces later swelled into 3D formations created by rhomboid, square and diamond shapes, and then abruptly deflated into flat prints on leather. These were worn with oversized shorts, or asymmetrical skirts, and paired with platform lace-up oxford shoes with short white socks. With their hair bound into swim caps and their heads squashed into plastic helmets, there was something almost retro space age about this collection. But one can never put a Watanabe collection into such a tight, descriptive box. The pops of acid bright colours created a circus-like flavour, while the models luscious red lips had been taped together as if the designer were declaring that there was no need for this woman to open her mouth; her clothes, after all, could and would do all the talking.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
JJ Martin
-
Frank Lloyd Wright’s first Los Angeles home faces closure
Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House is the city’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site. Now amidst city budget cuts, it will face closure and its status at the risk of being delisted
-
The jewellery designers turning their hand to homeware
Three jewellery designers apply their delicate eye for detail to homeware and furniture design, creating elegant pieces that stay true to their individuality
-
In film, Magic Farm, Amalia Ulman's characters are on the hunt for 'crazy subcultures'
Director Amalia Ulman explores hipster territory and internet culture in Magic Farm, starring Chloë Sevigny, Alex Wolff and Joe Apollonio. We meet her ahead of its release
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s