Scene setting: The design duo's show notes said that above what was most important for them for S/S 2016 was to maintain their raw approach in spite of their May LVMH Prize win. What the cash injection did do was to afford Marta Marques and Paulo Almedia the luxury of being able to choose their preferred show space – in this case a dilapidated warehouse in London's Angel.
Mood board: Citing singer-songwriter Fiona Apple, best known for her soul searching storytelling in the Nineties, as muse, this season's collection continued the pair's signature unravelling and deconstructing. Co-ordinated, top and pant looks were a theme, with a backless halter neck taking centre stage in various states of distress and fabrications from suede to denim and even shot silk.
Best in show: Spring's re-occurring buckle fastening, which finished halter tops and silk blouses along with a particularly avant-garde hessian wrap skirt, made voluminous by its raw ruffle tiers. A trench in the same fabric was another example of how the pair's undone aesthetic continues to be refined without loosing any of its individuality.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressingPart of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
-
Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationshipAnnouncing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
-
Through an innovative new training program, Poltrona Frau aims to safeguard Italian craftThe heritage furniture manufacturer is training a new generation of leather artisans
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
