Best in show: Tailoring has always been a known forte of Jason Wu's, but for S/S 2016, the designer freed things up a little by using softer fabrics and plenty of ruffles to realise his structured silhouettes. Classic shapes like slip dresses, trench coats and pencil skirts took on a more carefree, almost flirtatious feel. The opening series of coats and blazers, crafted from frayed cashmere, had fringed edges fluttering like feathers as it moved, while flirty halter dresses were made even more feminine courtesy of flouncy skirt ruffles.
Mood board: Citing influences of 20th century architecture, Wu presented numerous experiments with texture, be it with an enlarged wood grain print in optical shades of grey, or woven raffia organza garments that possessed both a lightness and structure to them. Embroideries comprised of three different types of lace delicately traced out the shapes of leaves on bodices, while short-haired furs added tactility to sleeveless jackets and dress coats.
Finishing touches: The collection's colour palette was also a strong point. Informed by the photography of John Rawlings, it ranged from ocean greens, black, carob to sandstone, with vibrant hits of berry pink and burnt sienna steering things away from the monochromatic.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
A new Oxford Street pop-up celebrates IKEA's blue bagsIKEA's iconic blue bag gets its own pop-up concept store, the 'Hus of Frakta'.
-
Audemars Piguet and Kaws have created the Royal Oak Concept watch we didn't know we neededThe Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon 'Companion' is slick wrist-worn art
-
A friendly rivalry coloured by kinship: Wendy Maruyama and Tom Loeser on their two-artist show'I wanted to make furniture, just not traditional furniture, but weird furniture,' says Wendy Maruyama on ‘Colorama’, a two-artist show presented at design gallery Superhouse (until 11 January 2025)
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New YorkOctogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The MetThe first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQThe Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
-
New York Fashion Week A/W 2021: drive thrus and digital distortionNew York Fashion Week's digital-first offering presented solutions to life post-pandemic and political crisis, from brands including Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler, Khaite and Collina Strada
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
-
Modern Manhattan: how NYC navigated the S/S 2021 showsAs the spring shows kick off in New York, designers offered respite, innovation and escapism from a city still moving towards recovery
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
