Mood board: Huge volumes blew over the runway at Marni, where Consuelo Castiglioni distorted the female shape and at the same time heightened it. Huge architectural shoulders created a new structure for the body while waists were severely cinched and loaded with enormous fanny packs that ballooned up to the size of rucksacks.
Best in show: This was a bold, arty show that offered Marni's more intellectual side. The best pieces tiptoed that conceptual line with the brand's signature feminine quirk. There was an exceptional series of three dresses, for example, crafted from printed canvas that were gathered irregularly at the waist and crusted in a shower of brilliant sequins.
Finishing touches: Shoes next season are sloping, extremely pointed toe affairs with big wedge block heels. But the coolest extra on these women were their mismatched earrings, dangling from one ear and the other in the quirky beauty for which Marni is known and loved.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
The Barbican as muse: composer Shiva Feshareki on bringing the brutalist icon to life through musicFor the last two years, British-Iranian experimental composer and turntablist Shiva Feshareki has been drawing on the Barbican’s hidden history as a gateway for her new piece. She talks to Wallpaper* about her Brutalist muse
-
London's coolest design-led coffee shops for your Fashion Week fixCoffee shops are the heart of London’s neighbourhoods, discover those fusing speciality beans and stylish interiors for the perfect brew
-
Martine Rose’s first gallery show celebrates the radical queer energy of Bronski BeatTaking place at Sadie Coles over London Fashion Week, ‘Everything Must Change’ centres on a 2016 short film by menswear designer Martine Rose and image-maker Sharna Osborne starring Bronski Beat frontman Jimmy Somerville
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
When Wallpaper* fashion team was part of Marni S/S 2022 showMilan Fashion Week’s Marni S/S 2022 show was an immersive and inclusive celebration that put the audience, Team Wallpaper* among them, at the heart of the action
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxationMilan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
-
Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
