Marques’Almeida S/S 2018
Scene setting: In the past, Marques’Almeida has staged its catwalk shows in cavernous warehouse spaces on Essex Road and Brick Lane in East London. That’s where the Marques’Almeida girl hangs out, listening to Nina Simone tracks and grunge. For S/S 2018, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida held the brand’s show outside under a railway arch off Brick Lane. Their models, or ‘MA girls’, friends and muses recruited by the brand, walked along a lengthy concrete catwalk, against a backdrop of graffitied columns, to the sounds of Dolly Parton.
Mood board: The collection was a mash-up of everything imaginative girls want to wear now: silk dresses and trousers with frothy marabou trims, striped and punky strap-detailed denim (the brand became synonymous with frayed, nineties-inspired denim when they debuted their first S/S 2018 collection under Fashion East), panelled plaid and Chenogasm-like dresses. The brand’s panache for Parton came in pony skin cow-hide coats cut like biker jackets, offset against a strong warrior spirit – seen in Oriental dragon print trousers with utility-focused pockets, sequinned skirts with flame-like scatterings of red, and stiff tops resembling breastplates. Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have recently welcomed a baby girl. Were the armour-like overtones a way to protect women from the political upheavals of today’s world?
Best in show: Marques’Almeida’s band of ‘MA Girls’ are chosen for the freedom of spirit and individuality. Backstage, they are encouraged to style their own looks, picking pieces that resonate with their personality. This creative touch was reflected in the layering seen within the collection – strappy tops and halter necks were layered over striped shirts with wide billowing sleeves, and the brand’s breastplate-inspired tops were teamed with ruffled smocks and brightly checked shirt dresses.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Tokyo Auto Salon 2025: custom cars and one-off creations from the Japanese home market
What began as a celebration of Japan's custom car culture is a now a major event for many of the country's biggest automakers. We round up the news from Tokyo Auto Salon 2025
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Lunar New Year in London: where to celebrate the Year of the Wood Snake
Do you want a year of good fortune and happiness? Then it is time to tuck into some of London’s cult favourite hotspots, devour decadent treats, and toast the Lunar New Year, and we have you covered with our guide to all things going on in the city (from 29 January until 8 February 2025)
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Remembering Oliviero Toscani, fashion photographer and author of provocative Benetton campaigns
Best known for the controversial adverts he shot for the Italian fashion brand, former art director Oliviero Toscani has died, aged 82
By Anna Solomon Published
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
By Jack Moss Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated