Chanel S/S 2018
Karl Lagerfeld makes a splash at the Grand Palais on the final day of Paris Fashion Week

Scene setting: ‘Saving the best for last’ is an apt expression for Paris Fashion Week, at least when it comes to show settings. Over the last few years, the legendary French maison has become just as known (if not more) for its otherworldly show scenographies as it is for its quilted 2.55 bags or its petites robes noires. As a matter of fact, the brand has spoiled us so much that guests hardly batted an eyelash upon witnessing a life-size waterfall – complete with stones, moss and all – in the middle of the Grand Palais. It was something between an Amazonian forest landscape and Peter Pan's Neverland. The catwalk was a zigzagging, wooden bridge, elevated over a pool of water (disclaimer: no influencers fell in the pool while taking selfies). Looked at from the fresh point of view of a fashion newcomer and not from the blasé, exhausted eyes of regular showgoers, it certainly was a once in a lifetime experience.
Mood board: As usual, it was Michel Gaubert’s music which fully set the mood. What mimicked an existing waterfall in the south of France immediately turned into a fairy tale land as his soundtrack – a mixture of singing birds, singing mermaids and Bjork's otherworldly Venus as a Boy – got the show started. Turquoise shredded tweed miniskirts, bermudas and culottes were systematically accessorized with Barbarella-esque clear thigh-high boots as well as plastic quilted bags. It was classic Chanel with its characteristic 2017 twist. The French maison has a very particular approach to the way it builds itself up to appeal to a millenial (even to a Gen Z) client without alienating a preexisting older audience. So far, the recipe seems to be working: mixing genuinely grown-up looks such as tweed skirt suits, pareo chiffon dresses or bourgeois to-the-knee skirts that will be seen in elderly Upper East Side ladies with gimmicky elements such as toy-inspired accessories, glittery bags or plastic capes best meant for the Instagram landscape seems a simple enough idea, but it takes Chanel to execute it well.
Best in show: Those clear, low-heeled boots! Actually, all things plastic in the show made a splash, including the Coco Chanel-inspired rain hats and the capes, sometimes embroidered and ruffled almost like couture pieces. Not very sustainable? Absolutely true. But for those who don’t go for PVC, there still was plenty to choose from. Like the party dresses in sorbet tones of tangerine, lemon and raspberry or a few simpler looks composed of black satin miniskirts associated to white blouses embellished with lace ruffles so delicate they almost looked like a halo. And if accessories are always a big part of the Chanel show, it is for a reason: we've got a distinct feeling that those oversize plastic quilted bags will be a hit next summer, both editorially and commercially.
Chanel S/S 2018.
Chanel S/S 2018.
Chanel S/S 2018.
Chanel S/S 2018.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Must-visit cinemas with award-worthy design
Creativity leaps the screen at these design-led cinemas, from Busan Cinema Centre’s record-flying roof to The Gem Cinema Jaipur’s art deco allure
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
The modernist home of musician Imogen Holst gets Grade II listing
The daughter of the composer Gustav Holst lived here from 1964 until her death, during which time the home served a locus for her own composition work, which included assisting Benjamin Britten
By Anna Solomon Published
-
This fun and free-spirited photography exhibition offers a chromatic view on the world
‘Chromotherapia’ at Villa Medici in Rome, explores how we view colour as a way of therapy, and how it has shaped photography over the last century (until 9 June 2025)
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
A decade of fashion show history in pictures
British photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
By Jason Lloyd-Evans - Photography Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated