Mood board: Word around Paris is that the show spot immediately before Saint Laurent is cursed. Last season, guests failed to make it on time due to the long distance between Jaquemus and the French house. This time, they weren’t going risk it. And so the victim of the cursed spot was Olivier Theyskens, which was a pity. Still, longtime fans and clients (Irina Lazareanu among them, carefully pointing out to her stylist every one of the show looks she would later want) were faithfully present. It was a good thing: they didn't miss a collection that was defined by a sharp sense of balance between the dramatic and the chic, with a hint of rock ‘n’ roll.
Best in show: Theyskens is well aware of what he does best, and never hesitates to showcase it prominently. As usual, perfectly tailored graphic skirts, delicate lace bodices (in this instance tied in the back with a barely-there clasp, which gave it an even more ethereal feeling) and sharp trousers were in show. But – as Lazareanu rightly commented after the show – it was the long bias-cut dresses which really got the show going, particularly a powder pink halter one, and a white chiffon gown with a long Isadora Duncan-like scarf ornate withe feathers tied in the back. They felt incredibly elegant, but they also filled us with the nostalgia of the once theatrical Theyskens.
Finishing touches: What is the perfect accessory for a voluminous black taffeta skirt with a train? Biker boots, obviously. The fact that Theyskens refuses to let go of his goth roots is one of the things that makes him most endearing. More than that, the boots – present in almost every look – were undeniably covetable, and almost made the thought of ever wearing a skirt or an evening gown with high heels insufferably ‘madame’.
Olivier Theyskens S/S 2018
-
Audemars Piguet and Kaws have created the Royal Oak Concept watch we didn't know we neededThe Audemars Piguet x Kaws Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon 'Companion' is slick wrist-worn art
-
A friendly rivalry coloured by kinship: Wendy Maruyama and Tom Loeser on their two-artist show'I wanted to make furniture, just not traditional furniture, but weird furniture,' says Wendy Maruyama on ‘Colorama’, a two-artist show presented at design gallery Superhouse (until 11 January 2025)
-
Tranquil and secluded, Lemaire’s new Tokyo flagship exudes a sense of homeIn Tokyo’s Ebisu neighbourhood, Lemaire’s tranquil new store sees the French brand take over a former 1960s home. Co-artistic directors Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran tell Wallpaper* more
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
