Erdem London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019

Mood board: Erdem Moralioglu revels in historical references. In recent seasons, his collections have nodded to vaudeville starlet Adele Astaire, the Queen’s jazz-loving youth and an imaginary meeting between his Turkish and English grandmothers. For S/S 2019, Moralioglu was mesmerised by the Victorian tale of Fanny and Stella, two men living as women, who were brought to trial for their seemingly immoral sexual exploits, and acquitted by its jury in less than an hour. There was a streak of subversive rebellion throughout his collection of wonderfully intricate gowns and evening looks. Flamboyant Lacroix-like bow details in candy shades, square power shoulders and splashes of colourful make-up. References to self-identity that sauntered through the dance-floors of Blitz and Kinky Gerlinky, borrowed from the make-up bag of Boy George and reveled in the rebellion of 1970s and 80s nightlife.

Team work: Hats are high on the accessories agenda for spring. Take the gothic veil covered hats at Simone Rocha or the floppy oversized sunhats at Rejina Pyo. For S/S 2019, Moralioglu collaborated with the milliner Noel Stewart on a series of identity-blurring wide hats with dark veils, which were paired with bejeweled opera gloves, naturally.

Best in show: In his show notes, Moralioglu mentioned the prominence of Darwinism in Victorian society, and the mantra of survival of the fittest versus subversive self-expression. The strongest looks were those in which Moralioglu reveled in rebellion, where historical garments became hybrids. Like a feminine rose motif overcoat with polka dot 1980s power shoulders or a voluminous cocoon dress with hyperbolic bow fastenings at the shoulders. §