Eudon Choi London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
Inspired by modernist ideals Eudon Choi’s S/S 2019 collection features artisanal textures with sculptural attitude.

Scene setting: Two seasons ago, Eudon Choi looked to the work of architect Eileen Gray – specifically her modernist villa, E-1027, built on the south coast of France. This research on modernism led him to discover the work of French artist Ivan da Silva Bruhns, known for his woven carpets during the art deco period in Paris. Now the focus for S/S 2019, Brunhs’ carpets feature washed out hues broken up with graphic line and asymmetrical designs, influenced by Berber rugs shown at an exhibition of Moroccan art in 1917. Choi’s approach of applying pattern and colour with rigour chimes with modernist ideals of tailoring tradition to radical ideas. For spring, Choi borrowed from Bruhns’ dusky colour palette. Geometric flourishes were embroidered over pleated cotton skirts and full-sleeve blouses; coffee coloured box pleat shirts were worn over wide-leg trousers. Edges frayed on linen suits.
Sound bite: Eudon Choi’s collection took its title – Manik Bagh – from the modernist palace in Indore, India. Built by the German architect, Eckart Muthesius and completed in 1934, many of da Silva’s carpets lined the rooms. The un-Indianess of the place fascinated Choi – its rejection of decoration, functional details and bold lines. This brought an artisanal texture to the clothes with a sculptural attitude. Wide leg culottes buttoned down the side, ruched blouses kept their form, silk skirts were gathered up and tucked into the waist band reminiscent of a man’s traditional dhoti trouser. ‘We work with a lot of menswear items and explore how we can put things together in different ways,’ the designer said backstage. ‘We tucked jackets into trousers so they became hybrid shirts, it felt new.’
Finishing touches: For a fourth season, Choi has collaborated with the Korean bag brand DÉCKE. Exemplifying the concept of feminine textures for bags and shoes, the leather and canvas accessories borrowed accent colours from the collection. A mini lady-like clasp purse in deep cyan was worn with warm beige, a circular pochette in stripped canvas was clutched to the elbow, a leather basket bag was filled with limes. A pair of lemon shaped zip-purses went zing.§
Eudon Choi S/S 2019.
Eudon Choi S/S 2019.
Eudon Choi S/S 2019.
Eudon Choi S/S 2019.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
ICON 4x4 goes EV, giving their classic Bronco-based restomod an electric twist
The EV Bronco is ICON 4x4’s first foray into electrifying its range of bespoke vintage off-roaders and SUVs
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
‘Dressed to Impress’ captures the vivid world of everyday fashion in the 1950s and 1960s
A new photography book from The Anonymous Project showcases its subjects when they’re dressed for best, posing for events and celebrations unknown
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrast
The Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
By Jack Moss Published
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
By Jack Moss Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated