Eudon Choi London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019

Scene setting: Two seasons ago, Eudon Choi looked to the work of architect Eileen Gray – specifically her modernist villa, E-1027, built on the south coast of France. This research on modernism led him to discover the work of French artist Ivan da Silva Bruhns, known for his woven carpets during the art deco period in Paris. Now the focus for S/S 2019, Brunhs’ carpets feature washed out hues broken up with graphic line and asymmetrical designs, influenced by Berber rugs shown at an exhibition of Moroccan art in 1917. Choi’s approach of applying pattern and colour with rigour chimes with modernist ideals of tailoring tradition to radical ideas. For spring, Choi borrowed from Bruhns’ dusky colour palette. Geometric flourishes were embroidered over pleated cotton skirts and full-sleeve blouses; coffee coloured box pleat shirts were worn over wide-leg trousers. Edges frayed on linen suits.

Sound bite: Eudon Choi’s collection took its title – Manik Bagh – from the modernist palace in Indore, India. Built by the German architect, Eckart Muthesius and completed in 1934, many of da Silva’s carpets lined the rooms. The un-Indianess of the place fascinated Choi – its rejection of decoration, functional details and bold lines. This brought an artisanal texture to the clothes with a sculptural attitude. Wide leg culottes buttoned down the side, ruched blouses kept their form, silk skirts were gathered up and tucked into the waist band reminiscent of a man’s traditional dhoti trouser. ‘We work with a lot of menswear items and explore how we can put things together in different ways,’ the designer said backstage. ‘We tucked jackets into trousers so they became hybrid shirts, it felt new.’

Finishing touches: For a fourth season, Choi has collaborated with the Korean bag brand DÉCKE. Exemplifying the concept of feminine textures for bags and shoes, the leather and canvas accessories borrowed accent colours from the collection. A mini lady-like clasp purse in deep cyan was worn with warm beige, a circular pochette in stripped canvas was clutched to the elbow, a leather basket bag was filled with limes. A pair of lemon shaped zip-purses went zing.§