Scene setting: Colour is central to Salvatore Ferragamo’s DNA – its famed rainbow wedge, originally designed for Judy Garland in 1938, is formed from a kaleidoscopic platform of colour. Last season, at Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland’s dual debut runway show for the brand, they erected a show set divided into different colour-blocked rooms. For S/S 2019 they followed suit, with a runway sectioned by gauzy-fabric walls in different shades, including sky blue, turquoise, orange and fuchsia.
Mood board: In their vision for Ferragamo, Andrew and Meilland have been exploring and reinterpreting the Florentine house’s archive. Last season, a bird-print silk foulard from the 1990s featured in their A/W 2018 collection. For S/S 2019 an archive botanical print anchored the utility and safari inspired offering, rich in neutral tones, and deep khakis, punctuated by pops of red, orange and turquoise. Since Andrew and Meilland took the creative helm of the house, the duo have been honing their vision of the mature modern wardrobe, rich in luxurious fabrications and wardrobe classics. For women, this meant buttery suede calf handkerchief dresses, bright duchesse satin suits and jackets, and tropical print tailoring. For men, soft shine macs, oversized trousers and leather detail linen jeans.
Finishing touches: The footwear was a fabulous celebration of the house’s archives. Ferragamo has a footwear museum in Florence, and when Andrew was originally appointed design director of women’s shoes at the house in September 2017, he spent hours poring over its extensive archive. Salvatore Ferragamo patented 350 shoe silhouettes, including the cork wedge, and this heritage reappeared in Oriental cork flatforms. There was a sculptural sensibility behind the brand’s founder’s designs, and this was seen here in mules with architectural wooden heels resembling graphic sculptures or carved pieces of furniture. Elsewhere, an archive design inspired a series of sandals, their uppers crafted from twists of foulard and nappa leather.
-
The new dawn of the London sandwich shopThe appeal of a quick meal between two slices of bread has long held sway in the UK. We look back on the rise of the sandwich shop and explore the new wave of London venues that are making it a more stylised experience
-
'The more I create, the more questions I have': Nifemi Marcus-Bello on craft and creativityThe Nigerian designer discusses the evolution of his Oríkì series, the distinct design language of Lagos and the shifting landscape for young African designers
-
A true pocket rocket, the unique V8-powered Aston Martin Super Cygnet is up for saleNicholas Mee & Co are offering the one and only Aston Martin Super Cygnet, a city car with an Aston Martin V8 spliced into its compact frame
-
‘Shoemaker to the stars’ Salvatore Ferragamo’s colourful life and work celebrated in new exhibition‘Salvatore Ferragamo 1898-1960’ at the house’s Florence museum explores the Italian shoe designer’s wide-ranging career, which began in the golden age of Hollywood
-
Salvatore Ferragamo’s low-impact sneakers are inspired by vintage running shoesThe latest arrival from the historic Florentine house is a colourful new series of sneakers, combining vintage inspirations, high-tech materials and sustainable construction
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Recapping Milan’s virtual mens fashion weekThemes of rebirth, re-emergence and reflection embodied the season's multimedia events
-
The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion weekTake an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
