Mood board: This season, Akris traded the Palais de Tokyo for the Pavillon Ledoyen to present the brand’s latest collection. Situated just behind the Petit Palais, the permanent tent with transparent walls might have been a different setting, but the Swiss house remains as consistent as ever when it comes to the style and the philosophy of its collections. This time, Albert Kriemler – aka the man who, every season, teaches the fashion crowd a new and fascinating art history story – built his collection through his relationship with a female artist.
Team work: Kriemler met the Romanian artist Geta Brătescu last year at documenta Kassel in Germany, and would bump into her again when she represented her country at the Venice Biennale in 2017. That sparked the beginning of a collaboration built on the artist’s wide-spanning work, which went from dismally grey life-size magnet sculptures (displayed, back in the 70’s, in the streets of a Soviet-era Bucharest… and in the catwalk during the show) to later-in-life, more playful and colourful collages. Sadly, the nonagenarian Brătescu never got to see the fruits of the collaboration: she died two weeks ago.
Best in show: The collection then came across as a moving – and technically accomplished – homage to her, starting with a series of trouser-top and jacket ensembles featuring a digital print of the magnet sculptures, and evolving progressively, almost imperceptibly towards more colourful looks including a long ivory dress with an overblown abstract print and chiffon numbers with her red figure collages. Elsewhere, there were pleated skirts in pale blue and silk evening dresses in shades of neon pink and peach.
-
Visit this Michelin-star New York restaurant that doubles as an art galleryArtist Mr.StarCity is exhibiting his emotionally charged yet optimistic ‘Bloomers’ portrait series at Frevo, a Greenwich Village hidden haunt
-
Nina Runsdorf brings classic jewellery back to life to mark 20 yearsNew York-based jewellery designer Nina Runsdorf celebrates her eponymous brand’s anniversary with a new jewellery collection, ‘Archive’
-
Enter the world of Cave Bureau, and its architectural and geological explorationsNairobi practice Cave Bureau explores architecture’s role in the geological afterlives of colonialism, as part of a team exhibiting at the British pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek -
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
