Scene setting: In Paris, the anticipation for Hedi Slimane’s debut collection for Celine has been palpable. It’s been two years since the designer left Kering-owned Saint Laurent, leaving with him a storied tale of profit making and marketing magic. We’ve had snippets of Slimane’s new vision for the LVMH-owned house, that was creatively helmed by Phoebe Philo for the previous decade: there has been a new logo (an accent removed from the first ‘e’, and a focus on a former 1960s typographic style) and a teaser of the brand’s new ‘16’ bag on the arm of Lady Gaga.
Images of the brand’s new women’s and men’s advertising campaign were posted on Instagram and plastered all over the streets of Paris. For his S/S 2019 debut, Slimane showed his collection in a dark show space at the historic Hôtel des Invalides. As the show began, a jagged mirrored wall was revealed at the head of the catwalk so Slimane’s first model reflected in multiple cross sections of glass before she emerged.
Mood board: In Slimane’s exclusive interview with Le Figaro, published on Tuesday, the designer spoke of ‘starting a new chapter for the house’. He also emphasised he would not ‘derogate from [his] style, from what made [him]’, and like the two drummers from la Garde républicaine who opened and closed the show, he was well and truly moving to his own beat. Slimane is renowned for his rock ’n’ roll, tapered aesthetic, and this was high on the agenda for his new vision for Celine. Titled ‘Paris La Nuit’, there were references to 1970s Cold Wave and mod culture, and the collection culminated in skinny suiting for men, and after-dark partywear for women. All shimmering micro mini dresses, fur coats, cropped tuxedo jackets and a daring flash of leg. This was a slightly softer, more romantic vision, with voluminous pouf dresses, net fascinators and plenty of ostrich feather trim. Slimane, renowned for bringing the skinny suit to Dior Homme, also presented a more unisex vision for the brand, with the entire men’s collection also available for women.
Team work: In his vision for Celine, Slimane has also added a couture atelier to the house, and a fully hand embroidered dress, teddy jacket and kimono showed off not just the skills of his new artisans, but also showcased a collaboration with Swiss-American artist Christian Marclay. The sequinned pieces featured colourful vintage-comic inspired embroidery, and demonstrated just one element of the new visual language, which Slimane has bought to the brand.
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All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressingPart of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
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Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationshipAnnouncing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
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Through an innovative new training program, Poltrona Frau aims to safeguard Italian craftThe heritage furniture manufacturer is training a new generation of leather artisans
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Celine Saint Honoré is dedicated to Hedi Slimane’s feats of savoir-faire and craftThe Celine store on Rue Saint-Honoré is designed to capture the spirit of Paris, showcasing the house’s most precious offering. Here, Wallpaper* captures Celine’s couture, Haute Maroquinerie and Haute Parfumerie collections in the luxurious space
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Exhibition to explore the Bloomsbury Group through fashionSupported by Dior, Charleston’s ‘Bring No Clothes’ explores the Bloomsbury Group’s use of – and influence on – fashion, featuring works by Dior, Fendi, Comme des Garçons and more, alongside original clothing and ephemera
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Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
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Canada Goose and Central Saint Martins celebrate next-generation changemakers in new London exhibition‘Keeping the Planet Cold’ – running from 17-21 February 2023 at London’s Lethaby Gallery – celebrates exceptional BA and MA fashion students in the field of sustainable and purpose-driven design
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Mud pits to giant flowers, the best runway sets of S/S 2023The most transporting show sets of the S/S 2023 season, from Demna’s pit of mud at Balenciaga to a giant fibreglass anthurium flower at Loewe
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New short film takes you behind the scenes at Margaret HowellA Working Space provides a behind-the-scenes look at 34 Wigmore Street, Margaret Howell’s London headquarters, which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year
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Samuel Ross announces fourth chapter of Black British Artist Grant ProgrammeAwarding Black British talent across design disciplines, this week designer Samuel Ross of A-Cold-Wall* launches the latest edition of his artist grant programme which is accepting applications now
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In Memoriam: Issey Miyake (1938 – 2022)We remember fashion designer Issey Miyake, who has died aged 84
