Mood board: Before hybrid garments were the silhouette du jour, there was Junya Watanabe. The Japanese designer is renowned for his spliced, mash-up aesthetic, which sees him deconstruct and piece garments back together with the precision of a punk tailor. Watanabe adopted more of a couturier’s sensibility for S/S 2019 – with a spring offering presented to a spectacularly uplifting Queen soundtrack – which fused his signature denim and patchwork tartan with voluminous tulle petticoats, evening gown silhouettes and pleated volumes. Burgeoning Parisian designers like Marine Serre and Y/Project’s Glenn Martens have taken a couture-inspired approach to their spring collections. Amongst new streetwear norms and sporty aesthetics, are these proportions the new rebellion?
Best in show: Distinctive shapes and silhouettes were cut and spliced together. Take a pair of dungarees, one leg a straight jean silhouette, the other a petticoat of voluminous net, a stripe t-shirt spliced together with a pretty puffball dress. Elsewhere there were patched denim overcoats, bias cut gowns dressed down with t-shirts and tattoo motif body suits, and band t-shirts that will all sing on the shop floor.
Finishing touches: Just in case those couture shapes and swathes of tulle and net got a little too saccharine, models strode the catwalk to Queen’s The Millionaire Waltz and Somebody to Love, in highlighter hue cropped wigs, punk dog collar necklaces and stacked Buffalo boots.
Junya Watanabe S/S 2019.
Junya Watanabe S/S 2019.
Junya Watanabe S/S 2019.
Junya Watanabe S/S 2019.
-
First look – Bottega Veneta and Flos release a special edition of the Model 600Gino Sarfatti’s fan favourite from 1966 is born again with Bottega Veneta’s signature treatments gracing its leather base
-
We stepped inside the Stedelijk Museum's newest addition in AmsterdamAmsterdam's Stedelijk Museum has unveiled its latest addition, the brand-new Don Quixote Sculpture Hall by Paul Cournet of Rotterdam creative agency Cloud
-
On a sloped Los Angeles site, a cascade of green 'boxes' offers inside outside livingUnStack, a house by FreelandBuck, is a cascading series of bright green volumes, with mountain views
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
