Scene setting: In the Biblical story of the Tower of Babel, a united mankind attempts to build a vast structure tall enough to reach heaven. God, in response confounds their speech, splitting them across the world in settlements speaking many conflicting languages. Aspiration, and collapse, human desire and identity, fractured hope and belief: Rick Owens’ collections leave us questioning. Their architectural and avant-garde silhouettes act as an allegory for modern times. For Owens’ Tower of Babel-inspired open-air show set (one he also explored for his S/S 2019 men’s collection) he erected a pyre in the centre of his Palais de Tokyo location, which burst into flames in the middle of the show. A burning pyre, flames in the foreground of a modern art museum, its façade lined with classical sculptures. Food for socio-political thought on a Thursday evening.
Mood board: The torch-carrying women on Owen’s catwalk evoked unsettling fire goddesses, or worshippers of a flame-wielding deity. They wore spiky sculptural outerwear, kimonos with caped arms like wings, draped fringed dresses, and were swathed in dusty bleached denim and jersey. There were coats laser-cut from leather that looked like armour or ceremonial robes, and mini skirts with soft bumbag pockets. Owens’ silhouettes are always strong and striking. Just like the Tower of Babel, his protective and architectural silhouettes provide protection against a world in which we constantly seem to be falling.
Finishing touches: That architectural élan was translated into metal jewellery, which was part sculpture part accessory. Like the pyre that burst into flames mid show, models wore scaffolding-like cuffs, headdresses and bracelets, which encased their limbs inside graphic metal structures. The collection also showcased Owen's second collaboration with Birkenstock, which culminates in Rotterhiker metal buckle boots and Rotterdam velco strap sandals. The huge Space age sunglasses, which models wore on the catwalk, will protect them from whatever fire the future brings.
Rick Owens S/S 2019.
-
Wallpaper* takes the wheel of the Bentley Blower Jnr for a rich automotive experienceHedley Studios has shrunk the mighty Bentley Blower into this all-electric, road-legal barnstormer. We take it to the streets of London
-
A suburban house is expanded into two striking interconnected dwellingsJustin Mallia’s suburban house, a residential puzzle box in Melbourne’s Clifton Hill, interlocks old and new to enhance light, space and efficiency
-
Zaha Hadid Architects’ new project will be Miami’s priciest condoConstruction has commenced at The Delmore, an oceanfront condominium from the design firm founded by the late Zaha Hadid, ZHA
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
At home with Rick OwensAs California-born fashion designer Rick Owens is named one of the Wallpaper* USA 300 – a celebration of creative America – we revisit our conversation with Owens in the run-up to his S/S 2023 menswear show last year
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek -
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
