Mood Board: Sartorial hybridation has been Chitose Abe’s raison d’être ever since she founded Sacai back in 1999. In the past 19 years, the Japanese designer has consistently explored the myriad ways in which two garments can be assembled to create a surprise. But that doesn’t mean she has sat complacently in her success. Abe is still seeking evolution. This time, her focus was equilibrium. More particularly, the one found in the way asymmetry rebalances once on the body. An obscure premise, perhaps, but one that made for an interesting collection.
Best in show: This time, Sacai’s wabi-sabi sense of beauty concentrated on vertical lines, and the starting point of the collection were the ever-practical vintage military jacket and the trench coat, both of which were metamorphosed through the addition of organza panels, tuxedo sleeves, knitwear, lace details and even a fisherman’s vest. Details got more and more intricate as the show went by, building up to a finale of flower-printed pleated skirts and dresses based on vintage prints by Henri Kvasnevski.
Finishing touches: For S/S 2019, Chitose Abe showed a particular flair for handbags. There was a tote bag – asymmetrical too, you guessed it – with golden zipper details that looked appealing, but it was the leather shopping clutches (mimicking paper boutique bags) in black and white – and in medium and large sizes – which really caught our eyes.
Sacai S/S 2019.
-
A revamped Edinburgh apartment combines Californian-style modernism with modern craftArcher + Braun have transformed an apartment in a historic house with finely tuned contemporary additions and sympathetic attention to detail
-
Formafantasma’s biodiversity-boosting installation in a Perrier Jouët vineyard is cross-pollination at its bestFormafantasma and Perrier Jouët unveil the first project in their ‘Cohabitare’ initiative, ‘not only a work of art but also a contribution to the ecosystem’
-
Gingerbread City: architects sculpt London out of the season's favourite treatUntil December 29 in Chelsea, see London brought to life in a seasonal-appropriate medium by leading architects and designers
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
