Mood board: Each season, the imaginative, narratively-minded designer takes a historical deep dive into a female biography, be it Italian aristocrat Principessa Orietta Doria Pamphilj or the young Queen of England. For S/S 2020, Erdem Moralioglu was fascinated by the Italian model, silent film actress, and photographer Tina Modotti, who moved to the USA in 1913, before becoming a Communist activist and agent after relocating to Mexico in 1922. Moralioglu’s collection, incorporating voluminous ruffled gowns in metallic brocade, eyelet detail trenchcoats, striped capes and polka dot Victorian tailoring, nodded to the amalgamation of styles which Modotti adopted before her suspicious death in the back of a taxi in 1941, from vintage 19th century dress to utilitarian military wear.
Scene setting: Moralioglu held his S/S 2020 inside Gray's Inn Walks Gardens, one of London’s largest privately owned gardens, laid out by Sir Francis Bacon in 1608, and populated with an orchard, daffodils and wildflowers. Models walked down its extensive central gravel path, lined with American Red Oaks, with regal, emotive and otherworldly effect.
Team work: Moralioglu teamed up with Sierra-Leone born London-based stylist Ibrahim Kamara who has worked with Beyoncé, Stella McCartney and Nike. Here, Victorian sunhats, taffeta neckscarves and opera gloves were offset with floral foulard scarfs tied around the body like sashes, for militaristic, rebellious effect.
Erdem S/S 2020.
-
Glamping on the Greek riviera: an alternative resort rooted in luxuryWe check in at the 91 Athens Riviera; an alternative seaside glamping resort in the Greek capital that is all about relaxed luxury
-
Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, Saint Laurent’s surprise menswear show captured ‘a menacing, seductive elegance’Staged at Paris’ Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, Anthony Vaccarello mashed up Rive Gauche elegance with Robert Mapplethorpe-inspired kink for his A/W 2025 Saint Laurent menswear collection
-
Armani Privé celebrates 20 years with a glittering show staged at the house’s opulent new Paris palazzo‘Creating is my reason for existing,’ says the 90-year-old Giorgio Armani, whose Armani Privé show in Paris last night (28 January 2025) was a shimmering ode to the art of haute couture
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2022: eight important insights to know nowFashion brands are back with a bang in The Big Smoke. Here’s everything you need to know from London Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
London Fashion Week A/W 2021: the future of post-pandemic dressingLondon Fashion Week's first digial only-offering imagined a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Burberry, Simone Rocha and Priya Ahluwalia
