Roksanda S/S 2020 London Fashion Week Women's

Scene setting: In her usual spring/summer style, the architect-trained designer held her show outside, in and around 2019’s Junya Ishigami-designed Serpentine Pavilion. This year, it takes the form of a single canopy resembling a cloud, formed from slabs of coloured slate. ‘It emphasises a natural and organic feel as though it had grown out of the lawn,’ Ishigami told us back in June. Ilincic added a bold tangerine runway to proceedings, inspired by Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s 2016 installation The Floating Piers – formed from 70,000 sq m of graphic, floating yellow fabric – on Italy’s Lake Iseo.

Mood board: Ilincic is known for her imaginative use of colour (also look to Rejina Pyo and Victoria Beckham for S/S 2020’s ebullient colour palette) and the crimsons, ceruleans and ochres in her collection nodded to the work of LA-based artist Mary Weatherford – who creates spontaneous sponged paintings that incorporate neon rods. S/S 2020 incorporated tailoring and day pieces, like slouchy boiler suits, oversized workman’s shirts and mélange jersey blazers, and more dreamlike couture-inspired gowns, accentuated with accordion pleats and huge ruffles. An array of crushed metal yarn taffeta dresses with collars resembling corrugated metal, bore particular resemblance to Weatherford’s work.

Best in show: There was an interplay between voluminous evening wear, of which Ilincic is most famous for, and more relaxed silhouettes. A series of bright draped dresses paired with tailored overcoats, and oversized menswear tailoring in ivory and flax was exquisitely modern.