Mood board: Power dressing doesn't come quite close enough to summing up the bold and bolshy collection Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez put together for Spring/Summer 2020. Boxy suits in light pastel shades, worn with beautifully draped cropped tops and slinky cowl neck tanks, jostled for attention with diaphonously sculpted cut-out dresses that boasted sharp v-necklines for added impact. The elongated and ever so slightly exaggerated silhouettes may not have been overtly sexy, but easily seduced viewers with their confidence and unrelenting sense of control. Definitely one for the woman in charge.
Finishing touches: Proenza Schouler's accessory offering, which included white leather booties and snaking leather sandals in shades of white, grey and marigold, was equally self-assured to match. Handbags ranged from no-nonsense oversized totes, loosely slung over the shoulder, to architectural pochettes with mismatched wrist straps - an enticing talking point in their own right. Finished with large gold hoop earrings and chunky sunglasses in black or tortoise shell, there was no doubting here who is boss.
Best in show: While suiting may have kicked off the show, the range of eveningwear on display was particularly breathtaking, especially with the incorporation of several, eye-catching fabrics, like a metallic foil paint splatter print, this season. Building upon past dress successes, which did reappear ocassionally in new iterations here, the duo also experimented with new silhouettes, including a slinky, glittering scoop-necked dress and a draped jersey gown, which alluring wrapped around a leather choker, while revealing carefully placed cut-outs for an added geometric effect. Even an evening duster coat, with an open square neckline, was quickly elevated with contrasting black foldover panels over the shoulder and lapels. Cool and collected, this was a definite highlight of the season.
-
Indian studio Compartment S4 celebrates architectural collaborationCompartment S4, the Indian architecture studio out of Ahmedabad and Mumbai, is true to its collective nature
-
A revamped Edinburgh apartment combines Californian-style modernism with modern craftArcher + Braun have transformed an apartment in a historic house with finely tuned contemporary additions and sympathetic attention to detail
-
Formafantasma’s biodiversity-boosting installation in a Perrier Jouët vineyard is cross-pollination at its bestFormafantasma and Perrier Jouët unveil the first project in their ‘Cohabitare’ initiative, ‘not only a work of art but also a contribution to the ecosystem’
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New YorkOctogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The MetThe first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQThe Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
-
New York Fashion Week A/W 2021: drive thrus and digital distortionNew York Fashion Week's digital-first offering presented solutions to life post-pandemic and political crisis, from brands including Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler, Khaite and Collina Strada
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
-
A decade of fashion show history in picturesBritish photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
