Scene setting: Guests arrived at the Hippodrome de Longchamp – a secluded area in the midst of the Bois de Boulogne – to find an organic wooden structure bearing only the letters Dior on it. Inside, bathed in dim lights, were 170 geometrically placed trees. A true garden - like the ones Christian Dior cherished - that aimed to go beyond the mere ‘effet surprise' of an impressive luxury group brand show setting. This season, Dior partnered with Coloco, a landscaping atelier specialising in sustainable, urban gardens. The trees were of different species, a metaphor for inclusivity, and, after the show, will be planted in different areas of Paris. Just as the rest of the raw materials used in the show’s structure, which will all be repurposed. In an era when many question the ecological soundness of fashion week, this is a sound start.
Moodboard: The garden – just as the collection – was an homage to Christian Dior’s sister Catherine Dior. An extraordinary woman who joined the resistance in 1941, using her brother’s rue Royale apartment to hold meetings before being deported by the Gestapo three years later, and surviving Ravensbrück. As interested as Christian in flowers and gardens, she was better known for being the ‘Miss' in Miss Dior, the designer’s first ever perfume, which he dedicated to her. Maria Grazia Chiuri reviving that lesser part of the Dior legacy felt very much in line with her recent reflections on feminism.
Best in show: Then there was the collection, inspired by the meaning of flowers and gardens today. Shades of beige and cream dominated the palette, almost as backgrounds for botanical explorations in the form of embroideries and prints. Dior staples including the Bar jacket were transformed into garden-friendly pieces which, combined with sloughy trousers, looked more comfortable than ever. But the guaranteed best sellers were the flou dresses, ranging from a beach-friendly multicolour ombré number to a series of couture-like embroidered tulle pieces with twisted straps – exactly the kind Christian Dior fans around the globe dream about.
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A revamped Edinburgh apartment combines Californian-style modernism with modern craftArcher + Braun have transformed an apartment in a historic house with finely tuned contemporary additions and sympathetic attention to detail
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Formafantasma’s biodiversity-boosting installation in a Perrier Jouët vineyard is cross-pollination at its bestFormafantasma and Perrier Jouët unveil the first project in their ‘Cohabitare’ initiative, ‘not only a work of art but also a contribution to the ecosystem’
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Gingerbread City: architects sculpt London out of the season's favourite treatUntil December 29 in Chelsea, see London brought to life in a seasonal-appropriate medium by leading architects and designers
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Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
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‘Modern beauty’: Pieter Mulier on his new vision for AlaïaAs creative director of Alaïa, Belgian designer Pieter Mulier honours the timeless vision of the maison’s founder while rewriting the past anew. Here, speaking to Jack Moss, he tells the story behind his first year at the house
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Mariella Bettineschi’s feminist artworks survey guests at Dior A/W 2022 showAs guests gathered at Dior’s A/W 2022 womenswear show venue in Paris, sets of duplicated eyes stared down at them from the artworks of Mariella Bettineschi
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
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Dior recreates Paris bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for A/W 2022 showDior recreated Paris’ landmark bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for its A/W 2022 menswear show, which took place on 21 January 2022, the date of Christian Dior’s birthday
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Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to HermèsIn this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
