Scene setting: Under the direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the Saint Laurent show has morphed from a closed-doors affair to something of a symbol of France’s power and might in the fashion industry. But nobody could deny the maison’s shows, staged in the open on the Fontaine du Trocadéro, just in front of a glittering Tour Eiffel, make perfect sense. After all, who has better embodied the values of true Parisian chic than Yves Saint Laurent? Vaccarello knows this, but he also knows the value of a good show (and one that is somewhat accessible to passersby, who invariably gather outside to watch the models strutting down the catwalk). This time, the brand came up with the idea of a moving lights show that framed each model as she walked by. And yet, once the show opened, it became clear that the real focus would be on the clothes.
Moodboard: If the show opened on classic Vaccarello grounds (all black, ultra sexy, short shorts galore), the shift focused to gradually reveal the real theme of the collection: an hommage to Yves Saint Laurent’s 1976 Ballets Russes collection. That year marked a turning point for the French designer, whose elevated hippy bohemian look would soon become synonym with Parisian elegance in the collective imaginary. Vaccarello revived those styles, unapologetically dressing his models in vaporous dresses, metallic jacquards, golden lamé (and golden boots!) and velvet. It was a delicious excess manifesto and, most importantly, it was offering women something that hasn’t been widely available for quite some time. But his homage to Saint Laurent didn’t end there. After a dramatic pause, a series of black tuxedoes worn, among others, by Stella Tennant and Naomi Campbell, played with the codes of Le Smoking. A real tour de force, as the French would say.
Finishing touches: A collection as rich as this would have been spoiled by too much styling and accessories, and Anthony Vaccarello knew where to restrain and where to go all out. However, two accessories caught the public’s attention: Betty Catroux-inspired oversized sunglasses where everywhere, a stark contrast to the current ever-shrinking sunglass trend (it is worth noting that the real Betty Catroux was front row, clad in sunglasses herself). And headscarves were also ubiquitous, a very Loulou de la Falaise detail that was irresistibly enticing.
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First look – Bottega Veneta and Flos release a special edition of the Model 600Gino Sarfatti’s fan favourite from 1966 is born again with Bottega Veneta’s signature treatments gracing its leather base
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We stepped inside the Stedelijk Museum's newest addition in AmsterdamAmsterdam's Stedelijk Museum has unveiled its latest addition, the brand-new Don Quixote Sculpture Hall by Paul Cournet of Rotterdam creative agency Cloud
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On a sloped Los Angeles site, a cascade of green 'boxes' offers inside outside livingUnStack, a house by FreelandBuck, is a cascading series of bright green volumes, with mountain views
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Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022: Loewe to ChanelFashion Week returns to form in the French capital. Here is everything you need to know about Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022
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Doug Aitken creates reflective artwork for Saint Laurent in VeniceFor the Saint Laurent S/S 2022 show, the brand’s first physical catwalk presentation since the Covid-19 pandemic began, American artist Doug Aitken created the living artwork Green Lens, on Venice's Isola della Certosa
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Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
